|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Glen Randall and Charlie Fowler-1982|
|Submitted By:||Dana Prosser on Sep 22, 2009|
|Comments on Crack Wars||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
|The short finger crack on the last pitch is what gets you up to the final squeeze chimney (which is way easier to layback by the way).|
Aug 18, 2012
|Did this route yesterday and really enjoyed it. Definetly deserves more traffic|
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|This route felt haaard. 11b for me. A lot more OW (and squeeze chimney!) than I was expecting. Getting over the roof is tough for those with smaller hands and who can't really reach the foothold out and right of the roof. I basically aided the thing. Above the roof is some pretty hollow, loose rock, and heady climbing to the squeeze chimney right at the top (which I liebacked, by the way!) Interesting route.....not sure I'd do it again, but it does have some good climbing, especially on the lower pitches.|
By Drew Thayer
From: Durango, CO
Nov 25, 2012
Awesome route! A good adventure out.
You can do this route dbl .5- 2 camalots, 3x #3 and #4 camalots, and 1 #5 camalot. Use a #3 and #4 for anchor after the 2nd pitch, a #2 and smaller cam for after 3rd pitch. The slot on pitch 3 is definitely the crux, just get funky and press it out.
In Nov 2012 the rap anchor atop Empirical Route (L of Crack Wars) was questionable at best; there's a very solid rap anchor on the N side of the Nuns that drops you down near Holier than Thou.
From: Oakridge, OR
Oct 14, 2013
I inadvertently linked 2&3 and didn't really have enough pro. I'd suggest 3x 3s & 3.5s (or new school 4s) and one 4.5 (new school 5). Don't see where a six would be handy.
Lots of cheese-grating off-fists for small hands.
I squeezed the top-out, but only after removing my harness (didn't think I had an effective belay by then). Otherwise it's an overhanging chicken-wing toe-heel thing. I'm skinny as fuck so plan to do that.
Crux for me was the roof. Seemed awkward.