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The Rectory
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coyote Calling T 
Crack Wars T 
East Face T 
Empirical Route T 
Fine Jade T 
Fine Shade T 
Hail Mary T 
Ministry T 
Off To See The Allah T 
Sinners and Infidels T 
Unsorted Routes:

Crack Wars 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Glen Randall and Charlie Fowler-1982
Page Views: 4,222
Submitted By: Dana Prosser on Sep 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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View from the top- Oh my!

Description 

In response to the Crack epidemic, this climb does not seem to get the traffic it deserves....

Crack wars has amazing hand cracks, fist cracks, and even a little OW thrown in to keep things interesting- so, grab that fat rack and head up the hill for a little fun!

P1-Jam thin hands crack, that slowly widens to hands and fists (4 star pitch!) to ledge on left with bolted anchor-5.10+ 90 ft.

P2-Fun fist/OW climbing leads to short traverse left and small roof, 15 more feet of wide climbing will lead to nice ledge where gear belay can be had- 5.10 70 ft.

P3-Continue up the fist/OW crack towards the obvious roof that looms above. Set up belay under roof with lone bolt and fist sized gear (#3 or 3 1/2 camalots works well here). 5.9+ 70 ft

P4-Jam out the featured fist-sized roof crack, and take a deep breath because it is not quite over yet..Some loose, heady climbing straight up (with short traverse L to corner) finally leads to short squeeze chimney, and the summit. -5.11a/b (crux pitch). Stewart Green's guidebook reports a 5.9 finger crack in R facing corner to summit- we did not see this crack, but perhaps it is a little further L than where we were???

This route is an enjoyable way to top out on the Rectory, and affords an awe-inspiring view of Honeymoon chimney (and beyond). Don't become another party waiting in line to do Fine Jade, when this route is just a few more steps down the trail...

Location 

Route is found on the West face , about 80 ft. right of where the nuns meet the rectory. Look for white calcitite covered rock, with obvious crack. Climb starts on top of ledge about 20 ft above trail.

Protection 

Rack: single camalots to #0.4, double #0.5-#2, triple #3, double # 3.5 and #4, single #5 and #6 Camalots, nuts, long draws, and rope. The only fixed anchor is at the top of the first pitch, so save some cams for the belays. Anchors are found to the climber's left of the last pitch, or rap Fine Jade.


Photos of Crack Wars Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down from the top of pitch two. Photo by Pat Peddy.
Looking down from the top of pitch two. Photo by P...
Start of route <br /> <br />
Start of route

Following P1
Following P1
pitch 2-big, fat fun!
pitch 2-big, fat fun!
Pat at the top of the first pitch.
Pat at the top of the first pitch.
Finishing off the roof on P4
Finishing off the roof on P4
Me on pitch 3. Photo by Pat Peddy.
Me on pitch 3. Photo by Pat Peddy.

Comments on Crack Wars Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

The short finger crack on the last pitch is what gets you up to the final squeeze chimney (which is way easier to layback by the way).
By knowbuddy
Aug 18, 2012

Did this route yesterday and really enjoyed it. Definetly deserves more traffic
By KDog
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This route felt haaard. 11b for me. A lot more OW (and squeeze chimney!) than I was expecting. Getting over the roof is tough for those with smaller hands and who can't really reach the foothold out and right of the roof. I basically aided the thing. Above the roof is some pretty hollow, loose rock, and heady climbing to the squeeze chimney right at the top (which I liebacked, by the way!) Interesting route.....not sure I'd do it again, but it does have some good climbing, especially on the lower pitches.
By Drew Thayer
From: Durango, CO
Nov 25, 2012

Awesome route! A good adventure out.

You can do this route dbl .5- 2 camalots, 3x #3 and #4 camalots, and 1 #5 camalot. Use a #3 and #4 for anchor after the 2nd pitch, a #2 and smaller cam for after 3rd pitch. The slot on pitch 3 is definitely the crux, just get funky and press it out.

In Nov 2012 the rap anchor atop Empirical Route (L of Crack Wars) was questionable at best; there's a very solid rap anchor on the N side of the Nuns that drops you down near Holier than Thou.
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Oct 14, 2013

I inadvertently linked 2&3 and didn't really have enough pro. I'd suggest 3x 3s & 3.5s (or new school 4s) and one 4.5 (new school 5). Don't see where a six would be handy.

Lots of cheese-grating off-fists for small hands.

I squeezed the top-out, but only after removing my harness (didn't think I had an effective belay by then). Otherwise it's an overhanging chicken-wing toe-heel thing. I'm skinny as fuck so plan to do that.

Crux for me was the roof. Seemed awkward.