Crack Wars 5.11a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Glen Randall and Charlie Fowler-1982 |
| Submitted By: | Dana Prosser on Sep 22, 2009 |
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Following P1
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Description In response to the Crack epidemic, this climb does not seem to get the traffic it deserves....
Crack wars has amazing hand cracks, fist cracks, and even a little OW thrown in to keep things interesting- so, grab that fat rack and head up the hill for a little fun!
P1-Jam thin hands crack, that slowly widens to hands and fists (4 star pitch!) to ledge on left with bolted anchor-5.10+ 90 ft.
P2-Fun fist/OW climbing leads to short traverse left and small roof, 15 more feet of wide climbing will lead to nice ledge where gear belay can be had- 5.10 70 ft.
P3-Continue up the fist/OW crack towards the obvious roof that looms above. Set up belay under roof with lone bolt and fist sized gear (#3 or 3 1/2 camalots works well here). 5.9+ 70 ft
P4-Jam out the featured fist-sized roof crack, and take a deep breath because it is not quite over yet..Some loose, heady climbing straight up (with short traverse L to corner) finally leads to short squeeze chimney, and the summit. -5.11a/b (crux pitch). Stewart Green's guidebook reports a 5.9 finger crack in R facing corner to summit- we did not see this crack, but perhaps it is a little further L than where we were???
This route is an enjoyable way to top out on the Rectory, and affords an awe-inspiring view of Honeymoon chimney (and beyond). Don't become another party waiting in line to do Fine Jade, when this route is just a few more steps down the trail...
Location Route is found on the West face , about 80 ft. right of where the nuns meet the rectory. Look for white calcitite covered rock, with obvious crack. Climb starts on top of ledge about 20 ft above trail.
Protection Rack: single camalots to #0.4, double #0.5-#2, triple #3, double # 3.5 and #4, single #5 and #6 Camalots, nuts, long draws, and rope. The only fixed anchor is at the top of the first pitch, so save some cams for the belays. Anchors are found to the climber's left of the last pitch, or rap Fine Jade.
Start of route
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pitch 2-big, fat fun!
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Finishing off the roof on P4
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View from the top- Oh my!
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Pat at the top of the first pitch.
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Looking down from the top of pitch two. Photo by P...
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Me on pitch 3. Photo by Pat Peddy.
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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.11-
| The short finger crack on the last pitch is what gets you up to the final squeeze chimney (which is way easier to layback by the way). |
By knowbuddy
Aug 18, 2012
| Did this route yesterday and really enjoyed it. Definetly deserves more traffic |
By Kbird
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b
| This route felt haaard. 11b for me. A lot more OW (and squeeze chimney!) than I was expecting. Getting over the roof is tough for those with smaller hands and who can't really reach the foothold out and right of the roof. I basically aided the thing. Above the roof is some pretty hollow, loose rock, and heady climbing to the squeeze chimney right at the top (which I liebacked, by the way!) Interesting route.....not sure I'd do it again, but it does have some good climbing, especially on the lower pitches. |
By Drew Thayer
From: Durango, CO
Nov 25, 2012
| Awesome route! A good adventure out.
You can do this route dbl .5- 2 camalots, 3x #3 and #4 camalots, and 1 #5 camalot. Use a #3 and #4 for anchor after the 2nd pitch, a #2 and smaller cam for after 3rd pitch. The slot on pitch 3 is definitely the crux, just get funky and press it out.
In Nov 2012 the rap anchor atop Empirical Route (L of Crack Wars) was questionable at best; there's a very solid rap anchor on the N side of the Nuns that drops you down near Holier than Thou. |
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