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 ADVANCED
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment 
Acid Crack 
Acid Rock 
AHR 
Bihedral 
Bihedral Arete 
Blood Diamond 
Case of the Fags 
Crack Variation 
Dan's Line 
Daydreaming 
Diamonds and Rust 
Dihedral Variation 
Edge of Reality 
Fat Tuesday 
Flags of Our Fathers 
Flesh Eating Flies 
Group Therapy 
Heterohedral 
High Hard One 
Hold The Line 
It's Time For Change 
Just Putin Around 
Left-Handed Tool 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] 
Night Moves 
Oh Boy 
Pariah 
Puff Daddy 
Rhodian Shores 
Rhodian, Naturally 
Sands of Iwo Jima 
Sun Spot 
Thumb Tack 
Tool King 
Trick or Treat 
Where's Ray? 

Crack Variation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type: Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Reveley and Diana Hunter, 1975.
Page Views: 421
Submitted By: Tony B on May 13, 2002
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Description 

From the route Bihedral's mid-point, at the first belay, head hard right around something of a bulge until you are below a tiny conifer. Climb up the broken, lichenous rock with some intermittent seams and flaring cracks past the tree and up to the bottom of the huge headwall. Undercling up and left under the headwall past the fabulous looking crack, Thumb Tack and then continue left around a corner to the top of the bihedral and belay. The pitch is about 120' total from the belay on Rhodian Shores.

This is no place for a beginner, as the climbing is delicate and quite poorly protected. Lichen covers much of the rock.

This can also be done from the top of Rhodian Shores by moving up and left, past the roof that is just above you, and then hard right to the beginning of the "crack" as described. From there the climbing goes up and then up and left. If you want to do this all in 1 pitch from Rhodian Shores, you will either put in no pro until the real deal starts, or you'll have a lot of drag. I chose not to place pro, as the zig-zag climbing was easy.


Protection 

There is not much pro, so a light rack is about right. You can place a mix of small cams and nuts to the top, where a few standard sized pieces are good.



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