2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
From the route Bihedral's mid-point, at the first belay, head hard right around something of a bulge until you are below a tiny conifer. Climb up the broken, lichenous rock with some intermittent seams and flaring cracks past the tree and up to the bottom of the huge headwall. Undercling up and left under the headwall past the fabulous looking crack, Thumb Tack and then continue left around a corner to the top of the bihedral and belay. The pitch is about 120' total from the belay on Rhodian Shores.
This is no place for a beginner, as the climbing is delicate and quite poorly protected. Lichen covers much of the rock.
This can also be done from the top of Rhodian Shores by moving up and left, past the roof that is just above you, and then hard right to the beginning of the "crack" as described. From there the climbing goes up and then up and left. If you want to do this all in 1 pitch from Rhodian Shores, you will either put in no pro until the real deal starts, or you'll have a lot of drag. I chose not to place pro, as the zig-zag climbing was easy.
There is not much pro, so a light rack is about right. You can place a mix of small cams and nuts to the top, where a few standard sized pieces are good.