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Upper Devil's Playground
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbed Wire T 
Crack to Nowhere T 
Crackpod T 
Day of Wrath T 
Formicae S 
Gut Bomb 
Meat Milkshake 
New Shoes T 
Panhandle , The T 
Sarah Palin's Drill T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Unsorted Routes:
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Crack to Nowhere 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Brink, Sept. 3, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 353
Submitted By: Jim Brink on Sep 3, 2012

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Standard Vedauwoo gear for Crack to Nowhere. Phot...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is a classic Vedauwoo OW. The crux is in the first 20 feet where the crack does a dogleg to the left and overhangs a bit.


This is on the east side of Limbo Rock aka Upper Devil's Playground above a new 4 bolt sport route "Formicae." From the top of that route, go up and left into a hidden alcove with two OW cracks. The right one is Crack to Nowhere. Walk off to the north or find the rap station for "Sara Palin's Drill" a few feet to the SW.


#6 Camalot, Big Bros to 10 inches, a 14 inch Valley Giant or Big Bro for the top. It has natural anchors.

Comments on Crack to Nowhere Add Comment
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By Jim Brink
Sep 4, 2012

Photo by Ben Boykin.
By Jim Brink
Sep 8, 2014

I spoke with Bob Scarpelli yesterday (9/7/14), and he says that he never did Crack to Nowhere, so I think my reported ascent is a first.
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