Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Amateur Hour Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1,2,3 Stop T 
Amateur Hour T 
Back In The Shadow Again S 
Crack to Chimney T 
Farm Team S 
Fire Breathing Craggin' S 
Micro Classic S 
Micro Slab S 
Microcephaly S 
Minarete T 
Post-Op Therapy S 
Senior Saga S 
Slabs Of Bakin' S 
Wonder Crack T 

Crack to Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Asher Sussman, Joaquin Fox
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 351
Submitted By: JMayhew on Feb 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is the main feature you can see from the parking area. It's a bit dirty in parts but fun to do if you're out there... and you like chimneys... and loose rock... and dirt.

Avoid the dangerous stuff in the last 20' by stepping out left to the belay/rap bolts on top of "1,2,3 Stop."

Location 

Right of "1,2,3 Stop" and left of "Amateur Hour."

Protection 

Including a #3 is useful.


Comments on Crack to Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By brian benedon
Mar 16, 2015

After reading the descrpt, we knew this route had my name on it. I wanted to start on an .8, but soon found that 123... had nothing to do w/ 5.8. We found Crack to Chimney to be a fun and doable way to reach the convenience anchors.
We finished up on Team Farm. We also used many of the encroaching bolts just as a matter of convenience. I guess it is ok to bolt next to a trad line if it's on the Lemmon? Thanks for the work guys.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 26, 2015

Thanks Brian. How did you like Farm Team? Is is better than the chimney? Can the people doing the chimney avoid those bolts? Which route would you rather do? Our goal, along with doing first ascents, at this never climbed crag, was to increase the number of moderates. As you know Mt. Lemmon is lacking in routes below 5.10 so I am constantly badgering Jim to do them when we find them.
By Jimbo
Mar 27, 2015

Brian, the only bolt that is easily clipped from the chimney is the first one and that's only if you start on the left side of the crack which is not the way I did it.

All the other bolts I would have had to leave the crack/chimney, climb over to the bolts, then go back into the chimney. I would call them inconvenient bolts for the chimney.

Seems maybe your need for convenience outweighed your need to climb the chimney proper. Just saying.

Also, what is the official acceptable distance a sport route needs to be from a no star, 5.6, grungy chimney? What distance will ensure the trad climber is not tempted by the shiny objects to his or her left. Forced against their will to clip the bolts instead of place the bomber gear right in front of them? Enquiring minds want to know.....
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!