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Wholly Holey 

Crack to Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dan?
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 26, 2011
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Dave near the crux.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is another squeezed in trad line between a couple bolted lines, Pack 'o Bobs and Wholly Holey. I'm confident it's been climbed, but it is not listed in the Haas guidebook.

Start as for either Pack 'o Bobs or Wholly Holey. If you like, you can clip the 1st bolt of Wholly Holey, I did. Then go up the crack on gear. The crux is probably at the top of the crack. Then, it continues up into chimney terrain. At the top of the chimney, you can make a reverse, mini-Fine Jade, P6 -like move around to the anchors of Wholly Holey.


Location 

This lies between Pack 'o Bobs and Wholly Holey.


Protection 

+/- 1 bolt, cams from orange Alien/#0.5 Camalot to #3 Camalot (doubles of #1), #4 BD wire, #12 BD wire, a few shoulder length slings.



Photos of Crack to Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the crack.
Looking down the crack.
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I thought the crux of this was at the bottom at the small overhang. I clipped two bolts, both on Pack of Bobs, the first and second bolts. I thought it was easy to get to the Wholly Holey anchors.