Login with Facebook
Overhang Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2 Ways 2 Hell T 
Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route S 
Beer Barrel Buttress S 
Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers T 
Beer Pong T 
Chicken Dance S 
Corniche T 
Crack to Chimney T,TR 
Crack/Bulge T 
Fabulous Flying Carrs Route, The S,TR 
Ground Doesn't Lie, The S 
Half and Half 2 T 
Handle This Hard On! S 
Hellbound II T 
Hellraiser T 
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 
Hippy School T,TR 
In Between the Lines S,TR 
Intuition S 
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain T 
Mr. Peery Take A Bow S 
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut S,TR 
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck S,TR 
Natural Fact T 
Off Line S,TR 
Pack 'o Bobs S 
Plumber's Crack, The T 
Routefinding 101 T 
Sidelines S,TR 
Smear Me A Beer S 
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim S,TR 
Toast & Jam? T 
Top Rope Face TR 
Tora, Tora, Tora T 
Toura Obscura S 
War With A Rack T 
What Line? T,TR 
Wholly Holey S 

Crack to Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dan?
Page Views: 869
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dave near the crux.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>


This is another squeezed in trad line between a couple bolted lines, Pack 'o Bobs and Wholly Holey. I'm confident it's been climbed, but it is not listed in the Haas guidebook.

Start as for either Pack 'o Bobs or Wholly Holey. If you like, you can clip the 1st bolt of Wholly Holey, I did. Then go up the crack on gear. The crux is probably at the top of the crack. Then, it continues up into chimney terrain. At the top of the chimney, you can make a reverse, mini-Fine Jade, P6 -like move around to the anchors of Wholly Holey.


This lies between Pack 'o Bobs and Wholly Holey.


+/- 1 bolt, cams from orange Alien/#0.5 Camalot to #3 Camalot (doubles of #1), #4 BD wire, #12 BD wire, a few shoulder length slings.

Photos of Crack to Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the crack.
Looking down the crack.

Comments on Crack to Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I thought the crux of this was at the bottom at the small overhang. I clipped two bolts, both on Pack of Bobs, the first and second bolts. I thought it was easy to get to the Wholly Holey anchors.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!