Crack to Chimney
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Dave near the crux.
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This is another squeezed in trad line between a couple bolted lines, Pack 'o Bobs
and Wholly Holey
. I'm confident it's been climbed, but it is not listed in the Haas guidebook.
Start as for either Pack 'o Bobs
or Wholly Holey
. If you like, you can clip the 1st bolt of Wholly Holey
, I did. Then go up the crack on gear. The crux is probably at the top of the crack. Then, it continues up into chimney terrain. At the top of the chimney, you can make a reverse, mini-Fine Jade, P6
-like move around to the anchors of Wholly Holey
+/- 1 bolt, cams from orange Alien/#0.5 Camalot to #3 Camalot (doubles of #1), #4 BD wire, #12 BD wire, a few shoulder length slings.
By Jay Eggleston
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I thought the crux of this was at the bottom at the small overhang. I clipped two bolts, both on Pack of Bobs, the first and second bolts. I thought it was easy to get to the Wholly Holey anchors.