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Crack technique: ring-jam
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May 13, 2010
Me Pumped out
So I've been climbing for about 5 years now, and trad/crack climbing is the new frontier for me which I started a little over a year ago.

I feel fine in a hand size crack and I have no trouble with the occasional fist size crack here and there, but I have a lot of difficulties with cracks between fingers and hands.

Can someone explain to me exactly how I'm supposed to do a ring-jam with my thumb, index, and middle fingers??? Pictures would be great!

I've learned the thumb lock, and while I'm still getting used to it, I like it so far. If my terms are correct a thumb lock is where you have the pad of your thumb on one side and the 1st knuckle on the other with a finger or two stacked on top to hold it in place.

Thanks
Ryan Justen
From St. Paul, MN
Joined Nov 13, 2007
322 points
May 13, 2010
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
You might want to have a look at the classic article by Dale Bard,

supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3...

and Steph Davis' account of thin crack technique

lackhead.org/jamming/
rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Feb 15, 2008
288 points
May 13, 2010
Dappled Mare
rgold just posted the best two articles I've seen about crack climbing technique.. so, /thread.

But, what you're describing as a "thumb lock" is exactly how you do a ring lock/ring jam.
ShibbyShane
Joined Jan 30, 2009
23 points
May 13, 2010
sunset on Sundance Buttress
Nice rgold! Two good articles indeed. I remember reading that Steph Davis article when I first started climbing and thinking "Fudge that looks painful!" Then I remember getting on thin stuff at the Creek and saying "Fudge it really is painful!" duh Ryan Fischer
From Boulder
Joined Feb 22, 2008
119 points
May 14, 2010
Loving it up in the Creek!
Ryan Fischer wrote:
Nice rgold! Then I remember getting on thin stuff at the Creek and saying "Fudge it really is painful!" duh


The more it hurts, the better your technique is!

But seriously, it really does hurt.
tooTALLtim
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 9, 2007
1,226 points


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