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Crack technique: ring-jam
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By Ryan Justen
From St. Paul, MN
May 13, 2010
Me Pumped out
So I've been climbing for about 5 years now, and trad/crack climbing is the new frontier for me which I started a little over a year ago.

I feel fine in a hand size crack and I have no trouble with the occasional fist size crack here and there, but I have a lot of difficulties with cracks between fingers and hands.

Can someone explain to me exactly how I'm supposed to do a ring-jam with my thumb, index, and middle fingers??? Pictures would be great!

I've learned the thumb lock, and while I'm still getting used to it, I like it so far. If my terms are correct a thumb lock is where you have the pad of your thumb on one side and the 1st knuckle on the other with a finger or two stacked on top to hold it in place.

Thanks

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By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
May 13, 2010
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard
You might want to have a look at the classic article by Dale Bard,

supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3...

and Steph Davis' account of thin crack technique

lackhead.org/jamming/

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By ShibbyShane
From Estes Park, CO
May 13, 2010
Dappled Mare
rgold just posted the best two articles I've seen about crack climbing technique.. so, /thread.

But, what you're describing as a "thumb lock" is exactly how you do a ring lock/ring jam.

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By Ryan Fischer
From Boulder
May 13, 2010
sunset on Sundance Buttress
Nice rgold! Two good articles indeed. I remember reading that Steph Davis article when I first started climbing and thinking "Fudge that looks painful!" Then I remember getting on thin stuff at the Creek and saying "Fudge it really is painful!" duh

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By tooTALLtim
From Boulder, CO
May 14, 2010
Loving it up in the Creek!
Ryan Fischer wrote:
Nice rgold! Then I remember getting on thin stuff at the Creek and saying "Fudge it really is painful!" duh


The more it hurts, the better your technique is!

But seriously, it really does hurt.

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