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Blob Slab
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A Hike for Y2K 
A Hike With Ludwig Dude 
Crack Tack 
Left Roof 
Of Human Bondage 
Old Route 
Out Of Limits 

Crack Tack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pat Ament and Fred Pfahler,1964, 5.9, A4. FFA: Larry Bruce, Leo Foster, 1971
Page Views: 783
Submitted By: Friso Schlottau on Jan 1, 2001
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  • Description 

    This starts about 3m to the right of the right tree, at a flake which is fun to mantel as a first move. After the mantel, move up and right towards a bolt (1/4 inch, I think) then follow a left/up leaning crack. Climb straight up the slab to a crack which will take pro, and leads to the bolts.


    Protection 

    Pretty much nonexisting for the first 20 feet or so. Then a 1/4 inch bolt for the next 20 feet(!). Then a crack which will supposedly take small pieces. TR can be set from the bolts (see Ludwig Dude), or from a tree further to the right.



    Photos of Crack Tack Slideshow Add Photo
    Chuck Grossman, 1979. In those RDs he might as well be in hob nailed boots.
    Chuck Grossman, 1979. In those RDs he might as wel...
    Comments on Crack Tack Add Comment
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    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 1, 2001

    No way is this an X route. There are actually quite a few natural placements after the bolt, and even one below the bolt as I recall. I even question a PG rating.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 28, 2002
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c R

    I think the VS rating is wrong as well. I agree with the S, however. If you are leading at your limit, you may find it frightening. Another thing is that Rossiter's book shows it starting at two different points.

    If started from the right as in the book, near the right-leaning features at the right-hand side of a well-vegetated block, and then up to a good flake, there is plenty of pro and the route is probably only 5.8+ or 5.9-.

    If started at the seam to the left, from the left-most of the two blocks, you will have a short boulder problem to some gear and then a bolt. This is S not VS, the fall would not be too bad, get a spotter and you won't break your skull or spine.

    By XOG
    May 24, 2003

    This was my first (or maybe 2nd) 5.9 lead. I remember placing a brass nut in a small crack on the left side of a flake right at the top which, if it pulled, would have meant a ground fall. In fact, it did pull, but I did not hit the ground! As I moved left, the nut popped out, leaving me with essentially no pro. Fortunately the climbing must have been only 5.2 ish or so, but I still think it deserves the s rating. Not sure about vs - although it was vs the way I did it, I was also a very inexperienced leader at the time. Anyway, I wouldn't recommend it as a first 5.9 lead, but in retrospect it was kind of a cool experience anyway.

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jan 24, 2004

    Another in a series of "diagonal top ropes". You can climb up the right variation, place gear, down climb, and then climb the crux with a diagonal top rope. The way we did it we climbed up from the left side of the horizontal flake on good holds to end up about 6 feet left of the bolt, and then traversed right using good holds and a thin creaky flake to the bolt. The Rossiter guide sounds like the "real" route is a bit right of where we climbed (i.e., the real route is not the natural line). Above the bolt, the gear is good, and the climbing is much easier but interesting.

    By Allen Hill
    From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
    Mar 14, 2007

    When did this become a 5.10? It was easy 5.9 in EBs.

    By rob bauer
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 16, 2011

    I did this today and climbed most of Of Human Bondage (#59 in Bob's book) by mistake. You have to keep looking left to stay on route, otherwise, IMHO, that is the most runout route here. I got to the bolt, headed up toward the 2nd bolt (which is OHB), traversed left and up and mistakenly went right again to that 2nd bolt (another 1/4") got a bit above it; then down-climbed and went left again (got pro on the probable original line, and continued right to the anchors. Didn't see a third bolt up high. One of my partners followed OHB and I was impressed.

    By Larry Bruce
    Oct 14, 2013

    Ament and Pfahler did the first ascent of this route in 1964 and it was rated 5.9, A4. Leo Foster and I did this route free in 1971 and rated it 5.9...just a triva tid bit.