This 70-to-80-meter wall at Mills Peak stands just below and east of the lookout tower. Routes include short three pitch routes and good cragging along its base. Most routes follow distinct cracks to anchors where you can set up to top rope or continue for one or two more pitches to top. Although itís mostly prominent cracks, there are a few very nice sport routes. The wall gets early morning sun and gradually moves into the shade.
These routes are new, barely climbed and the wall has lots of lichen. Donít whine and contrast it to Donner or Yosemite, just help make it cleaner and nicer for the next. Scrub it off with your hand or a brush. Even though thereís been much cleaning already, many details still need your help.
See photos for topos of routes.
15 min. Find a faint trail just northwest of the parking that heads down a gully just north of the tower. The trail heads down and gradually around to the right. Look for cairns and orange tags. If you climb the entire wall, you can walk back up to the parking or walk back down traversing below the Boulder Tower to gain the approach trail.
Weather station 9.6 miles from here
2 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Crack Shack
Mills Dihedral Left 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b CA
: Shasta Cascade
: ... : Crack Shack
3. Mills Dihedral Left (M. D. L.) 5.10c 85 m 1p: 5.9, 30 m. Starting at the very bottom of the wall, follow the obvious left facing dihedral to anchor. 5.8 if you donít do direct start. Confident climbers can run this together with pitch 2. 2p: 5.10b or 5.11 variation, 15 m. Short pitch. Climb up into an under-cling crack and then reach over roof to a jug and mantle (5.10b) or climb up and left from anchor to a longer, harder hand-crack version of the roof (5.11). Mount either version and traver...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
By Patrick Mulligan
Jul 9, 2012
I climbed Finger Mill and MDL with Dan a couple of weeks ago. Dan has done an excellent job cleaning up the rock here, but this is still adventure climbing. The routes are solid with little loose rock, and the protection is generally excellent. Expect things like lichenous stretches of rock and bats and some dirt in the cracks and you'll very much enjoy climbing here. The two routes I climbed were excellent and very steep (both were drastically overhanging their bases). The exposure you feel being 1500' above the valley floor is excellent.