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crack pills

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Jim Bowers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 45
synrock crack pills

Finally a satisfactory solution to getting Crack you can put on your wall. 11 inches long with enough room for both hands. Dual texture so the outside is pretty useless for feet or thumb pinch. Synrock cool to the touch so you aren't putting your fingers in a warm greasy slot. Seven different sizes available. Will make more if people really like which is why I am posting this. Looking for more people to beta test which is why they are super cheap at $6 a crack.

crack pills in action
William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

Where do you sell them? That is how do I order if id like? For someone with a tight space these seem to "maximize the potential" of their/my walls. Cool man.

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

NICE! These holds make sense to me. One thing I hate about climbing holds is that they don't really represent the kind of rock I climb (at least where I live). Set a bunch of these horitzontal, and you got yourself a Gunks/Gap route.

Jim Bowers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 45
The Stoned Master wrote:Where do you sell them? That is how do I order if id like? For someone with a tight space these seem to "maximize the potential" of their/my walls. Cool man.
Currently selling them on ebay

crack pills on ebay

But I will sell direct for $42 + $15 shipping to US (usps large flat rate box) to anyone who emails Petrogrips@hotmail.com and says they want to test them.
Jim Bowers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 45

Thats 7 cracks (fill up usps frb) for $42

coldatom · · Cambridge, MA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 70

Do any of these work for finger locks? That would be amazing.
The video just shows a bunch of sidepulls and horizontals.
Hands and fists, I would imagine, are just too deep to be practical.

Jim Bowers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 45
coldatom wrote:Do any of these work for finger locks? That would be amazing. The video just shows a bunch of sidepulls and horizontals. Hands and fists, I would imagine, are just too deep to be practical.
Well they are just under 2 knuckles deep - some tight - some offwidth - yeah hands and fist don't seem practical. I am working on bigger 2-piece ones that should go past 2 knuckles for deeper finger jams.
kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

Jim Bowers wrote:
> "the outside is pretty useless for feet or thumb pinch."

Actually I'd find them more useful if they had some segment which was also useful for thumb pinch.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

Intersting but I don't see how they simulate cracks if you cant jam or finger lock.

They seem more useful to me as training tool for accurate footwork and accuracy for hands when doing big dynamic moves.

Jim Bowers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 45

Oh they definitely work for jamming, You put your fingers in and twist. Depending on the size of the particular crack and your fingers you can get that first knuckle locked in there pretty good.

Not having a thumb pinch is a good thing because it makes for much more realistic climbing. Pretty much every indoor hold is a pinch. Outside not so much.

Danny Radomski · · St. Louis · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 5

I know this thread is a healthy ten years old, but why not resurrect it.

I want to get better at finger cracks, but my free space is largely taken up by the board in my garage (so I can't fit a good crack machine in there). I have a board so why not put the cracks on there? WideBoyz volumes are expensive, and Fortress holds makes good looking finger lock holds, but then I saw the Synrock Crack Pills and the price of them (just can't be beat at that price). Bought them this past weekend, have not climbed on them yet, but I want to fill in some details for those that might also be interested. Jim doesn't see them as crack specific holds, and that kind of makes sense. If you're looking for slotted edges and crimps, these are a good consideration. None of them will be deep enough to fit two knuckles, so setting these as cracks means mostly difficult problems or routes. Crack-wise, three of them are probably totally off the table for finger locks (maybe dead vertical or slabby) unless you're a monster on tips jamming. They are thin, shallow, and flared (great as a traditional edge or crimp). One is deep enough to get some purchase on it, but it is really thin. Then the last four are at least doable jams for me (with them out on the floor, not on my board).

As far as the texture goes, it reminds me of rough sandstone. I have a set of the Synrock slopers on my board and they are great for the application. We will see how I do on hard jamming, but I will probably use some tape for these. 

 

This first one is a tight BD 0.2 or a ULMC 1

The second one is BD 0.3/ULMC 2 range or overcammed 0.4/orange. If this was deep enough for two knuckles, it would be a bomber jam for me.

Bomber if you equalize them.

I think this one is the last of the jammables. If it can actually be jammed on a 40° board....

These ones are all so shallow and flared that they will be traditional holds on the board.

This one will probably never be successfully jammed, but it's deep enough to get something from it. I will channel my inner Will Stanhope and try to make it work.

Overall, I am excited to use these. If they don't work for me as cracks, I think they are great slotted edges to force some accurate movement on the board. I haven't attempted to screw any on yet, so quality reporting can only go so far. But the texture is great, they look well made, and I hope that I can learn something about locking that first knuckle.

 

Edit: Put one up. These will never be successfully jammed on my board. Nice holds though.

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 995

Can anyone confirm that there's a good purple Camalot size that is deep enough to be usable for ringlocking? Looking for a Monkeyfinger simulator to mount on the hangboarddddddd.

Danny Radomski · · St. Louis · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 5

https://www.instagram.com/fortressholds/ Danny Parker was making crack holds for a moment. It might be worth reaching out to him

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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