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Crack Boulder Area
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Crack of Pain 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 712
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Apr 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: The vertical Crack of Pain

Description 

This beautiful, vertical finger crack is usually avoided like the plague. Nobody wants bloody fingers, do they? Well, tape up, insert yourself into the fingerlocks, and climb straight up.


Location 

On the Crack Boulder. This crack splits the face on the back. Scramble off the top towards the trail.


Protection 

Pads - there are a few small rocks at the base



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 26, 2014
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 19, 2009

HOLY S*&T! how is this avoided like the plague!?!?! that thing so EFFING BAD ASS!!!!! this is the one reason i will find out how to get to blair woods and go out and do this crack.... holy crap.... im wicked amped :)

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 21, 2009

thats exactly what i was thinking it looks sick!

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jun 22, 2009
rating: V3 6A

It does LOOK sick and it IS sick, but the pain to aesthetics ratio is over the top. I've sent it once and that was enough for me. In the past 2 or 3 years I've tried to get pumped for it again, no dice. Not fun enough to suffer again. Good luck and you'll cherish the send.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 22, 2010

so i went out and saw this thing first hand.... photo makes it look A LOT nicer haha. its still a sick crack but the little crystals in it are like sharp pointy teeth!

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 22, 2010

so i went out and saw this thing first hand.... photo makes it look A LOT nicer haha. its still a sick crack but the little crystals in it are like sharp pointy teeth!

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 22, 2010

so i went out and saw this thing first hand.... photo makes it look A LOT nicer haha. its still a sick crack but the little crystals in it are like sharp pointy teeth!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 23, 2010

Mike did you try it? I checked it out and put my fingers in the crack once and walked away, not sure if the amount of blood loss that would result from this is worth it...

It does looks sweet though, maybe I will eventually get pumped enough for it...

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 23, 2010
rating: V3 6A

oh, it's worth it. worth it cause you'll never have to do it again! Seriously, great problem with some tricky moves. I use some tape, TAPE is NOT AID, to help with skin loss. But, it makes my fat fingers fatter. Pain, good jams. Less pain, bad jams.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 23, 2010

Yeah I think I just gotta man up and go for it :) Tape does seem like a necessity.

By Noodle
Mar 30, 2010

Sent this two weeks ago, didn't lose any blood, but, my hands were visibly shaking for ten to fifteen minutes after! Not too bad as far as pain after the first two to three moves. Sweet climb!

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 25, 2014
rating: V3+ 6A+

I didn't use any tape and I didn't lose any blood. But, I can't say that I recommend this climb. Very painful, with uninteresting movement over an awkward landing. The first few moves are definitely the crux, with bad locks and small feet. It lets up slightly after that, though I wouldn't say there are any 'easy' moves until you're standing on top. I'm glad I never have to do this again. :)

By Alec Woolley
From: Bartlett, NH
6 days ago

Don't be blindsided into only trying locks. I mostly slot my hands except for an initial lock to pull up. No blood loss and it's painless once you figure out the good spots. Love this climb even though i didn't when first trying it.