Crack of No Return is located on the Bookmark Pinnacle left of Son of a Pitch.
Start just left of Son of a Pitch and make a bouldery traverse left on great rock to reach the base of the Crack of No Return. I was lucky enough to do this with a nice, 2 foot deep, snow drift under the crux. Otherwise, a crash pad may be nice? After climbing a little ways into the actual crack, the climbing eases to steep 5.8 hands and a little wide stuff.
There is now also a direct start to this climb which eliminates the traverse and goes at 5.12ish?
The crux of this route is a unprotected traverse six feet off the ground. Those with weak ankles may want to bring a crash pad and/or a good spotter for the crux. Bring some small cams and some pro up to 4" for the crack above.
|By jason seaver|
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 28, 2003
The direct start that Paco mentions was done in March of this year. It is, perhaps, better protected than the original start. You start in the left-facing, left-leaning corner left of the original start, place a good cam high in it, traverse thinly right, get a tiny (but good) RP in the very base of the Crack Of No Return's crack, and continue to a stance. The RP placement is skippable (as my partner demonstrated), but that makes it just as dangerous as the original start. Choose your weapon......
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13
The traverse in from the right makes it feel like you are up there a ways. Pretty exciting, and when you finally do get to the base of the crack, you aren't really slamming in a no-brainer #2 Camalot. Pretty engaging.