Crack of No Return  5.11a/b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  George Hurley and Dave Rearick, 1975 Submitted By:  paco on Apr 1, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Crack of No Return is located on the Bookmark Pinnacle left of Son of a Pitch.

Start just left of Son of a Pitch and make a bouldery traverse left on great rock to reach the base of the Crack of No Return. I was lucky enough to do this with a nice, 2 foot deep, snow drift under the crux. Otherwise, a crash pad may be nice? After climbing a little ways into the actual crack, the climbing eases to steep 5.8 hands and a little wide stuff.

There is now also a direct start to this climb which eliminates the traverse and goes at 5.12ish?

Protection 

The crux of this route is a unprotected traverse six feet off the ground. Those with weak ankles may want to bring a crash pad and/or a good spotter for the crux. Bring some small cams and some pro up to 4" for the crack above.