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Unsorted Routes:

Crack of Dust 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Beck, 1964
Season: any
Page Views: 3,046
Submitted By: mschlocker on Apr 2, 2006
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Leading up Crack of Dust, Mission Gorge.
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thin flaring crack to the right of Mariah / Suzie's Wild Ride. Crux is pulling over the top with dirt for handholds. Feet can come out of the crack toward the top to smear. Bolt anchor at the top, but far back so extend it with your climbing rope. More climbs start from the top-out ledge.


Location 

To the right of Mariah / Suzie's Wild Ride by about 50 feet.


Protection 

Med-large nuts, #2 & .75 camalot is what I use. Save a .75 camalot w/ extension runner for the top.



Photos of Crack of Dust Slideshow Add Photo
great route to access upper main wall climbs
great route to access upper main wall climbs
Good photo of Crack of Dusk (5.8)
BETA PHOTO: Good photo of Crack of Dusk (5.8)
Malia on the Crack Of Dust
BETA PHOTO: Malia on the Crack Of Dust
Comments on Crack of Dust Add Comment
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By david baker
From: jamul, ca
Apr 5, 2006

When you get to the base of the main wall go left for 150 feet. You will see the obvious crack to the left of the Owl. The finish on this climb is slick as only Mission Gorge can be. Place an red alien near top of crack for finish. Climb is short and very protectable however, there is a ledge about a third of the way up that you could easily hit if you fall.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008

Real sweet climb. One o' these days I'll have to lead the durn thing.

By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
May 28, 2011

I agree the dirty finish is the best part.

By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 17, 2011

Nice short fun crack climb. Yep it is dirty up top. Remember to wear helmet on this particular route as there are so many loose rocks up on the ledge of the route.

By ChrisRoyHarman
From: San Diego
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

You can use 3-4 cams on this route; BD C4 .4 .5 .75 & #1. The top of the route is extremely dirty with loose rocks, wear a helmet for this route.

By claudio ricardez
From: ESCONDIDO
May 21, 2012

I hit that ledge and luckily only sprained my ankle. Make sure you use correct length runners above the ledge. I should have used a shorter runner to avoid this mishap.

By ChaseLeoncini
From: San Diego, California
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Warning: the 3 bolt anchor on the wall atop this route (or at the start of 'Never Intended') has two fixed carabiners that have attained severe rope damage due to lowering off of them. Use caution when deciding to use these or replace.

By Ryan N
From: Lone Tree, Colorado
Oct 13, 2012

Crack I'd definetly dusty/dirty. Watch the move as you pull out of the crack to the false topout. Great climb though and worth the mouthful of dirt.

By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Good climbing... Tie into the quack of ducks for additional crack climbing.