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Morning Glory Spire
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Book of Dissent T 
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Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
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Crack of Doom 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Greg Lowe, 1965
Page Views: 12,966
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 9, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (88)
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Working the pod...

Description 

This is "the" 5.11 crack climb at the City. It is found 35ft to right of the start of Skyline 5.8.

The start is protected by a fixed pin, which can be stick clipped. A fixed nut has remained in place about 2 feet above the pin for the last couple years. These 2 pieces protect the opening crux moves very well.

Start on the shelf to the left and traverse into the crack. Grab the correct holds and these moves are only 5.11a. Work the face on the right and get established in the thin finger crack. Thin crack and stem moves will lead you to a rest jam at the roof.

The second crux is moving through the OW pod right above the roof. (#3.5 Camalot and poor feet) A continuous slightly overhanging hand crack leads to a 2 bolt anchor.


Protection 

Handful of TCUs, Ballnuts, and nuts for the first half of the route. #1-3.5 Camalots for the second half of the route.



Photos of Crack of Doom Slideshow Add Photo
With a lisp.... "Ooh this IS a nice crack!"  Price's friend.
With a lisp.... "Ooh this IS a nice crack!" Price...
the cruxy start.
the cruxy start.
The crack of doom after the face of doom
The crack of doom after the face of doom
Price's friend on the COD
Price's friend on the COD
Wei Ming, fingers deep. Lombardphoto
Wei Ming, fingers deep. Lombardphoto
Of DOOM!
Of DOOM!
Crack of Doom
Crack of Doom
The Crack of Doom.
The Crack of Doom.
This is my send of Crack of Doom. Photo: Ron Long
This is my send of Crack of Doom. Photo: Ron Long
Entering the hand crack half-way up the route.
Entering the hand crack half-way up the route.
Thin crack section...
Thin crack section...
The opening moves....
The opening moves....
Crack of Doom .11c
Crack of Doom .11c
the pumpy finsh
the pumpy finsh
Wei Ming, elbows deep.  <br />Lombardphoto
Wei Ming, elbows deep.
Lombardphoto
Comments on Crack of Doom Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 28, 2014
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Stick clip the pin, then it's bascially a boulder problem into the crack which slowly widens. Make sure to take some big pieces for up high; when I did this a single #3 Camalot was the biggest piece I had, which made me feel a bit unprepared.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 30, 2006

The bottom moves are just plain hard - and seem to get harder each time I do it. I've yet to get the bottom clean. Definitely bring a good helping of #2 and #3 Camalots with one #4 Camalot for the pod. The finger crack protects well with small cams from a green C3 (blue Alien?) to #0.5 Camalot. The bottom is the crux - obviously - but the top delivers a pump that will be remembered.

By david goldstein
Aug 28, 2006

Since I haven't climbed much at the City, this is a qualified endorsement, but of the routes I have done there, Crack of Doom is easily my favorite. Great gear, a much easier than it looks (impossible) boulder start, followed by a few feet of hard thin crack sets you up for 40' of woo-hoo hands to OW crack climbing on immaculate, smooth sided granite.

Experienced crack climbers will likely find the bouldery moves at the start about two number grades harder than the OW "2nd crux".

An old style (purple or black) #4 Camalot is too large for the OW, a #4 Friend works better. You could also get by w/ 2 #3 Camalots.

Beta Alert: I went lower than the guy doing the left handed pinch in one of the photos. Taking the low road, a hard to see crystal crimp on the right arete (above the right hand pinch) was crucial.

By bbrock
From: Al
Apr 13, 2007

Not stickclipping the fixed pin bumps the grade up and turns it into a more serious deal for sure.

By Squatting Bear
Aug 5, 2008

I say keep your head in check, style the route, and don't stick-clip the first piece. The gear is already there after all.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Don't believe that with the correct holds the start is only 11a... its a V3 boulder problem to a short 11a bit until you get your fingers in the crack, then 5.10 to the top. Also, the top hardly qualifies as off-width- there are a few wide bits that one can reach right past with a little technique. As classic as they come.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 5, 2009

I just got on this route again, about five years after first climbing it, and it is every bit as wonderful as it was the first time around. Definitely the best crack climb I've done at the City. Very diverse route frmo the boulder problem into an Indian Creek-styled featureless crack with changing corners. Runs the full range of sizes, with the exception of off-fingers. As the above comments mention, I think the opening moves may be a bit harder than 11c, but as soon as the crack widens beyond fingers, it is definitely easier than the grade. The "offwidth" at the top is not too bad, in my opinion.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 29, 2010

Congratulations Guy!

By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jul 1, 2011

The route is good (and one of my favorite at the City- led it twice on my last trip) and once in 2005. The only reason I gave it two stars is because its a 5.11 boulder problem (which was really fun) with a 5.10 crack. The offwidth is really mellow where you can reach through most of the wide stuff. Gear: a quickdraw for the piton, two small stoppers, a few green and red C3's, a couple of blue and grey 0.3 and 0.4 C4's, 1 0.5 C4 and then a a couple of yellow (2) and blue (3) C4's and if you wish a 3.5 (grey) C4.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jul 15, 2011

Ok, I've just got to say here, be very careful on this climb. We stick clipped the pin, just as everyone else has (and as I have about 4 times over the past decade), and it fell out. I know this is THE classic climb, and that plenty of people have probably hung on the pin, but it is definitely not bomber, as many people have perhaps implicitly assumed.

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Jul 18, 2011

Just to add to camhead's comment, I'm glad that the pin fell out when we clipped it instead of coming out during a fall. I had a mini-epic that day and I'll tell the story at some point but the current situation is as follows:

We left the pin at the base of the route and camhead spoke with the climbing ranger at the City who said he'll probably just hammer a new pin into the existing scar. Both of us disagree with this plan, but we aren't rangers...

Be careful!

By Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Attempted this route on July 17th, without any fixed pin present. Ended up stick clipping the first bolt on Power Tools, swinging over to get in a couple solid pieces, etc... 'twas exhausting to say the least.

On the last day of the trip over (July 19th), we ran into several climbing rangers, who had just replaced the fixed pin (new hardware). Looked pretty solid. Sadly, giving it another burn wasn't on the agenda.

By Della
From: SLC, UT
Sep 5, 2011

The fixed nut is gone, but the pin is there as of 9/4/11

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 23, 2011

I would not describe the 2.5 feet of 4" crack as OW since it's trivial to reach past it on good jams. This section does provide a great spot to stuff your elbow in and take a rest though. Fun climb, although I think that the pin is sorta silly. Any normal biner stickclipped on there is going to be loaded on the nose. Time for a bolt.

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 25, 2012

This is an amazing route. Definately a good one for those trying to push their limits. Don't overload on gear, a number 4 could be placed but 2's and 3's can go in above or below so don't bring it. I stick clipped the pin and the biner needs to be flipped upside down so it's not loaded on the nose of the biner. There is also a stuck stopper above the pin which made things nice.

By benjaminleaton
From: Sandy, UT
May 24, 2013

Crack of Doom Video

By Jack Lazar
From: Portland, OR
Jun 28, 2014

Be aware: The upper crack likes to eat #2 camalots. Keep that in mind if you plan to belay a follower up--the belay rope may encourage the #2 to walk deep into the crack if the second hangdogs. An extra spotter is nice for the starting boulder problem if the climber feels ethically or aesthetically disinclined toward stick clipping.