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> Elephant Rock
Crack of Despair
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Elephant Rock
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Crack of Despair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crack of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crack of Redemption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crashline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Elephant Talk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Elephantiasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Fatal Mistake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hairline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hocus Pocus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hotline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Left Guru Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lost Error T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moongerms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pink Dream T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pink Elephant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plumb Line T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Real Error T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Guru Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Straight Error T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trundling Juan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Worst Error, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Worst Error, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Frank Sacherer and Galen Rowell (Oct, '62) --- FFA: Frank Sacherer, Chuck Pratt, Tom Gerughty (1964) |
| Page Views: | 2,937 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Aug 23, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is the huge corner to the right of the more famous Crack of Doom. You can either approach by scrambling up the open scree/rockfall zone and then moving left to the base of the ledge system, or there is a trail that starts at the right side of the Monster Boulder which leads up to the base of the Worst Error Pinnacle and then over right to the base of this ledge system. There is a fixed rope on a slab that you hand-over-hand up to access the ledge which then leads up and left to the base of the routes.
This climb is best done in two rope-long "full value" pitches (and will be described below as such) but it could also be broken up into 4 shorter pitches (as per the Reid guide) if you stop at some less savory belay spots.
Pitch 1 starts out kind of dirty and passes several trees. Once you've climbed to the top of the last tree you will encounter a double crack. You get a couple handjams in the left crack before it turns to a seam and are forced into the right crack in the corner. This is the crux offwidth. It can be difficult to find a rest, especially towards the end, so just keep moving until you snag a chockstone "jug" and then flop over into the wider chimney. Clip a newish bolt ("new" compared to the one below it!) and wiggle a little further up the flared chimney/ow to a good stance where the chimney really opens up and gets deep. There is an anchor here consisting of an old piton and an 'ok' bolt. 180ft.
Pitch 2 climbs straight up the massive chimney system. There's a section, maybe 60ft up, where it gets pretty tight. Skinny folks will be able to squeeze through in the back, while larger dudes will need to battle it out with a flared ow at the edge of the chimney (looked like some more 5.10?). Continue up the chimney with little to no pro and then climb out at the top. There's a handjam flake here which leads up past some bay tree's to the top. We stopped at the bay trees and rapped the route because we left stuff at the base. To top out you might need to do one more short pitch or just a bit of simulclimbing (it's probably a little over 200ft to the best belay spot).
To descend either rappel the route with two ropes or scramble east on ledges and 3rd/4th class to the top of Real Error and rappel that route (see descent info for Crack of Doom)
This climb is best done in two rope-long "full value" pitches (and will be described below as such) but it could also be broken up into 4 shorter pitches (as per the Reid guide) if you stop at some less savory belay spots.
Pitch 1 starts out kind of dirty and passes several trees. Once you've climbed to the top of the last tree you will encounter a double crack. You get a couple handjams in the left crack before it turns to a seam and are forced into the right crack in the corner. This is the crux offwidth. It can be difficult to find a rest, especially towards the end, so just keep moving until you snag a chockstone "jug" and then flop over into the wider chimney. Clip a newish bolt ("new" compared to the one below it!) and wiggle a little further up the flared chimney/ow to a good stance where the chimney really opens up and gets deep. There is an anchor here consisting of an old piton and an 'ok' bolt. 180ft.
Pitch 2 climbs straight up the massive chimney system. There's a section, maybe 60ft up, where it gets pretty tight. Skinny folks will be able to squeeze through in the back, while larger dudes will need to battle it out with a flared ow at the edge of the chimney (looked like some more 5.10?). Continue up the chimney with little to no pro and then climb out at the top. There's a handjam flake here which leads up past some bay tree's to the top. We stopped at the bay trees and rapped the route because we left stuff at the base. To top out you might need to do one more short pitch or just a bit of simulclimbing (it's probably a little over 200ft to the best belay spot).
To descend either rappel the route with two ropes or scramble east on ledges and 3rd/4th class to the top of Real Error and rappel that route (see descent info for Crack of Doom)
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