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Miscellaneous Lower Blair routes / problems
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Buck Shot 
Crack Named Sue 
Knockin' on Heaven's Door 
University of Mars 

Crack Named Sue 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Justin Edl and Jeff Wendt, 2003
Page Views: 2,078
Submitted By: Justin Edl on Sep 27, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: This is a photo shot from the trail. Crack Named ...

Description 

This is a beautiful overhanging right leaning splitter. The crack is really tight knee size at the lip, and flares in quickly enough that those with big fists may find the route easier. You can also pull on the bottom edge like a rail or stack. You can do it right side up, but upsidedown seems to work a lot better. Once you rock all the way around the corner top out the easy slab to the apex of the boulder. A lower, logical, and very recommended start is on the bottom of the backside of the boulder. Start on two hands by the little tree and then work your way down around the corner and then back up. This start goes at V6 or V7. Bizzarre and beautiful. The name was inspired by the Shel Silverstien song "Boy Named Sue". The rating is 5.11/V2 if you do the original start, and 11+/V3 from the lower start. Highly recommended.


Protection 

A couple of pads are nice because you will be upside down for a good ways and it's not super short.


Location 

The best way to get to this problem is to take the trail that runs along and to the north of the three Blairs. After the trail bends right (south) and goes down hill, keep looking to the right to see this distinctive boulder about a hundred yards off the trail.



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By Davin Bagdonas
Jun 2, 2007

FA: Davin Bagdonas
Shown by Bob Scarpelli years ago

By Justin Edl
Jun 4, 2007

Actually, I believe I had done this crack before Bob had shown it to you. I remember you telling me about it, and I had done it the fall before. I know I GPS'd this for the guide. Bob told you it was undone, but I guess he hadn't checked with me to see if I had gone back and done it. He had shown it to me one day and I tried it by leavitating instead of fist jamming, and my ankle hurt for weeks afterward because I got my foot really stuck, hence the name. I went back a month or two later and did it with Jeff Wendt spotting. If my memory serves me well, you said you fist jammed the whole thing.

By Davin Bagdonas
Jun 4, 2007

I did fist the thing. Don't know about timing, sounds like you got it. So long ago. nice crack!