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Blood Wall
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Crack McMuffin 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stephanie Petrilak, Mike GIlbert, Joanne Urioste, 1979
Page Views: 710
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Nov 21, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Crack McMuffin

Description 

On the cliff bands below the Blood Wall there is a varnished face split by a crack. Climb the crack straight up to a pine tree at its top.

The obvious descent is to scramble left (east) and do a short rappel into the tiny canyon leading back to the base of the route.


Location 

Walk up the Oak Creek trail, passing beneath the Solar Slab, and drop into the streambed. Go upstream to a point where some brushy third class leads up and left (south) to a ramp system going back toward the road. When you are beneath the route, climb up a 150' fourth-class slab. People less cowardly than myself may scamper up this section with no thoughts about next-of-kin, but we roped up for the ascent. Having just a single rope, we descended this section by down-leading, which seemed like a reasonable compromise.


Protection 

Standard rack



Photos of Crack McMuffin Slideshow Add Photo
Closer view of the wall.  The route goes up the crack in the center of the varnish and ends at the obvious pine tree.
Closer view of the wall. The route goes up the cr...
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