Crack Love II 5.9-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter, Pebby Johns, and Bruno Haché |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Not Winter |
| Submitted By: | Richard Rossiter on Jun 24, 2006 |
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RR going for gear on the FA of Crack Love II. Pho...
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Description The Sequel. This route begins 8 feet right of the obvious V-slot of Crack Love. Hike up a short ramp, then climb a finger and hand crack straight up to a roof. Pull the roof via hand jams and continue up a widening, slightly flared crack to the top. It is not very difficult, but it is a real crack climb on excellent rock.
Location Crack Love II is the penultimate route on the upper left Northeast Face of Avalon. It begins a few feet right of the obvious V-slot of Crack Love and perhaps 80 feet up and left from The Art of War.
Protection Gear only from 0.5 inch to 3.5 inches. 2 bolt anchor with rings at the top. Lower off 75'.
RR on the FA of Crack Love II. Photo by Joan John...
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RR placing gear on the FA of Crack Love II. Photo...
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BETA PHOTO: Crack Love and Crack Love II from below.
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Marga Powell halfway up the pitch.
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| Comments on Crack Love II |
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2006
rating: 5.9
| Another fun crack climb; a little wider than Crack Love, but just about as hard. Turning the roof into the wide crack near the top was the hardest spot. Seemed like 5.9 by Boulder Canyon trad standards.
I sewed it up with a #11 BD Stopper, blue tricam, green and yellow Aliens, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, #3 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot, and 2 #4 Camalots.
There was a tree with two slings and a locking biner at the top; I didn't see a 2-bolt anchor. |
By Richard Rossiter
Jul 18, 2006
| A 2-bolt ring anchor is now in {as of 7-10-06) at the top of Crack Love II. The anchor also serves the finish to Crack Love III, a few feet to the left. A good stance affords easy threading. Lower off, 75 feet. |
By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 3, 2012
| Nicer line than the main Crack Love. |
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