An excellent route with cracks of all sizes. It offers just about every crack technique and features some great jamming, particularly on the 3rd pitch finger crack.
This route links the original routes 'Crack of No Hope' - FA-Doug Robinson/Jay Jensen, and 'Wild Kingdom' - FA-Dean Hobbs/Andy Selters. This combination is the recommended way to go...
Pitch 1: Begin as 'West Face', but at the big ledge near the top of P-1 break left off 'West Face' and traverse left along the big ledge, passing the rappel anchor and the obvious off-width. Build a belay at the base of the next short arching crack on a nice little perch. To decrease rope-drag, belay at the rap anchor then have the follower continue past to the proper belay stance. (5.10a)
Pitch 2: Climb up the short right-arching crack past broken blocks to a thin chimney on the right side of a large detached block. Tackle the next short off-width then break left into the funky flare/V-groove to a tricky exit sequence (crux). Follow the easy low-angle chimney to its top then step down and left to belay on a ledge below the obvious left-facing corner. (5.10b)
Pitch 3: Up the nice corner to the steep finger crack that leads up and right out of the corner. Pop over the lip (crux) following the crack out right, then back left to a short traverse around the arete to a short splitter thin-hands crack. Follow this up to a big ledge and belay at the base of the short and thin right-facing flake. (5.10c)
Pitch 4: Up the flake (crux), then thru some scrambling to the big ledge below the true summit. Another short 4th class scramble will sit you on the top. (5.10b)
Descent: Rappel, downclimb, or lower 40 feet down and right to the first proper rappel station on the exposed block. (5.5) From here you have four 35 meter rappels (two 60m ropes/one 70m)
Northwest face of the Pinnacle. Find the 15 foot block/flake at the base with finger cracks in both sides to start.
Standard rack to 4"
Doubles from small fingers to hands are useful
Jun 10, 2009
This is my favorite of the routes I've done on Cardinal. The pitch3 finger crack is truly stellar.
|By Bruce Willey|
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 15, 2009
Got a left knee stuck in the off-width exit move on P-2. Never thought it would come out and had visions of that dude in Utah who cut off his arm. At first I thought it was a cool, no hands rest, only to discover the knee had cammed in there pretty good. Took about half hour to free and now my knee is the size of a small, seedless watermelon. Great route, though.
Jun 30, 2014
Fantastic and varied climbing on perfect rock.
I would recommend bringing 2 #4 camalots for the offwidth pitch.