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 ADVANCED
Crescent Crack Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Amigos T 
A Kat That Grumps T 
C.P.O.S. T 
Closet Lycra T 
Crack in the Woods T 
Crank in the Woods S 
Crescent Crack T 
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 
Final Link T 
Great Chockstone, The T 
Grunting Gringos T 
Hand Jive T 
If Looks Could Kill S 
Interplanetary Voyage T 
Kutcorner T 
Lazarus T 
Less Than Zero T 
Lunge or Plunge T 
Mexican Crack T 
Missing Link T 
Multiplicity S 
No Jive Arete S 
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 
Razor's Edge S 
Ross Connection, The T 
Ross Route, The T 
Rotert's Rooter T 
Short Corner T 
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 
Waterslide S 
Who's On First S,TR 

Crack in the Woods 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,426
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Mar 17, 2004

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5.9? You can get a no hands before the crux!

Description 

Keep walking uphill from Crescent Crack past Mexican Crack until you see two chimneys and a couple of bolted routes. To the left of the chimneys is a 60' finger and thin hand crack - this is it.

Climb a few feet up an easy chimney, and then climb the steep but bomber thin hands crack over a small bulge. Mostly 5.8 with a couple of harder moves. There are chains at the top, or better yet continue up Hand Jive.

Protection 

A light rack from small to hand sized.


Photos of Crack in the Woods Slideshow Add Photo
Getting started on a nice December day.
Getting started on a nice December day.
Start of a fun 5.9.
Start of a fun 5.9.
Howie seconding crack in the woods. Photo by me.
Howie seconding crack in the woods. Photo by me.
is it a hand crack?  Is it a finger crack.? It is a Crack in the woods!
is it a hand crack? Is it a finger crack.? It is ...

Comments on Crack in the Woods Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 17, 2014
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 2, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just lead this after following it the first time. A very soft 5.9 if it is one. Great lead for breaking into the grade - gear is very easy to get anywhere you want it.
By Nathan Fisher
Apr 6, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I would agree with Andrew after leading it for the first time this morning. It is a soft 5.9, and it gobbles up gear. It is a nice climb, just way short.
By Anonymous Coward
May 24, 2005

It has long been assumed that these routes (crack in the woods and handjive) have their grades switched. Crack in the woods is closer to 5.8, while handjive seems more like a LCC 5.9. Maybe I am wrong, but have always felt this to be true, and many others do as well. What do you think?
By Nathan Fisher
May 24, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

That would make sense, cause I zipped up Crack in the Woods on lead, and Hand Jive on second caused me to gulp a couple of times. Although, in my defense the crux was wet and slippery still. I need to do it again now that it is drier.
By Josh Petersen
Jul 21, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought the grade of this and Hand Jive were suspect the day I on-sighted this (supposed 5.9) and backed off Hand Jive before I even started up it. TCU's are great on this.
By tytonic
From: Salem, OR
Nov 24, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun route that would be better if it was longer and didn't have the chimney start. 5.8+ sounds like a good rating. The last 10-15 feet are really easy. Didn't have time to do Hand Jive. That just gives me an excuse to go climbing again. I agree that TCU's or other small cams woudld be great. I didn't have any and would've liked them.
By Price
From: SLC, UT
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Umm ... yeah, there are some small hand jams, but fingers would be a more accurate description for most of this shorty.
By Michael Buchanan
Oct 21, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Lookinh through Dave Smiths Guide (Wasatch Granite) he gives Hand Jive a grade of 5.10ish in 1977. Crack in the Woods was not in the book, but I thought this climb was MUCH easier than other classic nines and even easier than the eights in the area. Would be three stars if it was longer. Just my two cents...
By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Nov 6, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun stuff. I think the name really reflects the route well, a quaint little climb. really good gear, wish the trasnfer to hand jive didnt look as scary.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 24, 2011

Great crack, great climbing - just to dang short! Would be interesting to try to link with Hand-Jive!
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jan 14, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Just climbed this on lead for the second time. This has got to be one of my Top 5 favorite routes.
By Andrewprime1
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun little crack, a bit funky at first. Would have given it three stars if it was double the length. Definitely a good start to Hand Jive!
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 10, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Crux at bottom protects well with .3 BD. Funky start, mellow finish. Do it, then Hand Jive.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Oct 19, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This felt like a soft 5.8 cuz the crux is the first 15 feet. This takes #.3 and #.4 C4s very well. Basically,the higher you go, the easier this route gets. Slick but loaded with tons of bomber fingerlocks! Definitely a rad line to do for those who want to lead trad.
By madskates
From: SLC
Jun 17, 2014

The start of this is the crux, if you have finger size piece and a few nuts you should have more than enough to sew this up if needed.