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Mt. Moroni
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg T 
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2+ [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, Les Ellison (4/84)
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 4,234
Submitted By: eDixon on Apr 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Les Ellison Impression (or at least an attemp)

***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


P1 (C2+ or 5.11 R) Climb right-facing corner to a ledge with bolted anchor.

P2 (C2) Follow the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to a bolted belay anchor.

P3 (C2) Continue up the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P4 (C1) Move back into the crack, which is now 1/2 - 3/4 inch, and climb to bolted anchor.

P5 (C2+) Move up from the anchor, then do a short pendulum to the right to gain a right-facing corner. Climb this to a sloping belay/bivy ledge.

P6 (C1 or 5.11a) Climb the 1.5 to 2 inch crack that ends with a section of offwidth/chimney.

P7 (5.9) Handcrack to chimney.

P8 (C1) "The Wormhole". Climb through the side slot passing apast a block on the left the wide chimney. #2 Camalot for belay.

P9 (5.9) Climb the handcrack in left-facing corner.

P10 (5.8, C2) Continue up crack (5.8) then right (C2) to top anchor.




(2) sets small offsets nuts, (1) set nuts, (3) Black Alien - #3 Camalot, (1) #4 & #5(new) Camalot, hooks


Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni in the center of the tallest, most prominent buttress. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10-15 minutes, start looking for a faint path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall.


Rap route or descend the back side of Mt. Moroni via a 75' rappel. Downclimb to a canyon, hike up canyon (north) to a pass, descend to Lady Mtn. Trail

Photos of Crack in the Cosmic Egg Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route follows crack system in the center of this s...
BETA PHOTO: Route follows crack system in the center of this s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1. A red alien is key for the crux. A fall w...
Pitch 1. A red alien is key for the crux. A fall w...
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the pitch 2 splitter
Following the pitch 2 splitter
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the short offwidth section on pitch 6
Following the short offwidth section on pitch 6
Rock Climbing Photo: The Egg.
The Egg.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kim Miller leading pitch 9
Kim Miller leading pitch 9
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleaning the Wormhole pitch
BETA PHOTO: Cleaning the Wormhole pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: P3
Rock Climbing Photo: rest day? taking off on the awesome second pitch. ...
rest day? taking off on the awesome second pitch. ...

Comments on Crack in the Cosmic Egg Add Comment
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By AndrewinLyons
Aug 31, 2008

Here's a couple of links to McNamara's topos. It goes clean.
By Brian Sadowsky
From: salt lake city
Nov 11, 2008

I agree with C2+ for this route. Leave the hammer in the car. Great rock except for a couple of sections.
From: Winona
Mar 12, 2009

Great route. The first four pitches are the goods, while the upper pitches are just ok. The mac/ ammon variation to the wormhole looks better although there are some loose blocks on the following pitch. Also be ready for some biz on the last pitch, bring a hook! Pitch five is plush bivy as well. An obscure Zion classic.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Oct 22, 2012

Fantastic Route! For the last "technical"pitch: Take a black diamond grappling hook along with a black diamond talon. If you are less than 6' the fixed pin is waaayyy out there. Also, I pulled a fixed pin out 15 feet from the top and had to use a loweball to pass this section. It would have sucked without that ball nut. Most anchors have new bolts, however bringing a handrill, some 1/2 rawls, and the skill to put them in would be a great thing to do to any of the belay or rappel anchors that need a little t.l.c. A classic Wasatch Route!

By peicker
Mar 19, 2013

A heads up to all who climb this route: There is a pretty sizable (3.5ft x 1ft x 3in) oblong boulder sitting on the ledge on top of pitch three. I almost dislodged it. It would be really bad to send that thing down on those below you. Also, we pulled a rock off about the size of a coffee can today while rappelling the route.

The route itself was great! Only got through pitch 7 on the original route due to weather concerns, but overall the climbing was sustained and a lot of fun.
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Mar 21, 2013

Rappel/anchor bolts are bomber up through the top of pitch six on the Original Variation. Top of pitch seven is one drilled angle and one star drive with Leeper hanger. The protection bolts were all bomber star drives with Leeper hangers.
By Alexosaurus
May 6, 2013

The block which was sitting on the ledge at the belay of pitch three is no more - we sent him down two days ago.
By Kelly FIelds
Oct 23, 2015

The ledge at the top of pitch 5 is described as "sloping"....just how sloping is this ledge? Does anyone know how many people it can sleep? Is there a ledge big enough to bivy on on the top?
By Kelly FIelds
Oct 27, 2015

This may be a dumb question, but the Supertopo Guidebook topo lists 2 grapling hooks and then puts (big hooks) in parentheses. My mentor told me grapling hooks are the big ones, used for hooking large flakes....when I look this up all I find are Pika hooks...are these one in the same? The only grapling hooks I can find are the BD grapling hooks, which are small. Which hooks do you need?
By bsmoot
Nov 9, 2015

We didn't use any big hooks, but maybe someone else found them useful. The midway ledge is too sloping to lay down on. I used a hammock but it was a long night! The top may require a little hunting around, but you should be able to find something.

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