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 ADVANCED
Lightning Bolt Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Dream T 
Cracker Dream TR 
Edge to a Smear TR 

Crack Dream 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: The Lightning Bolt

Description 

Climb the obvious zig-zag crack system, mostly hands, which splits the west face of the crag. Gear belay and walk off.

Location 

Left side of the west face.

Protection 

Gear to 3"


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Crack Dream (Lightening Crack)
Crack Dream (Lightening Crack)

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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Both button head anchor bolts at the top are spinners, and the decomposing granite does not promote using a trad anchor. The protection on this route is difficult at best in decomposing granite (not secure). The majority of the crack is flaring; offset cams might work better. Not recommended for a budding trad leader. Might as well solo the damn thing; I definitely wouldn't want to test any of my pieces on it with a fall.

However, the moves are enjoyable, and this is one of the only trad lines in Horseman's Center.
By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 7, 2012

Pro is not that bad. I really don't think it 5.8 after climbing in Josh all winter.