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Animal World
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Threshold Of A Dream S 
Triple Play T,S 
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Wine and Roses T 

Crack Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,184
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 23, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Description 

Crack Corner is admittedly an obscure climb that is overshadowed by the several stellar routes on Animal World. That being said, like Old Dihedral, it's a fun climb and worth the attention if you brought your rack up the hill.

Crack Corner is the first route encountered on the lower cliff when hiking up the trail, immediately to the left of Animal Rights Activist. Look for a right-facing corner with parallel cracks ending at a tree. Climb the cracks and pull through a small bulge about 1/2 way up (crux). The climbing felt a little harder than the 5.7 rating, but the protection is excellent all the way to the top where you can anchor off the tree and boulders. To descend, downclimb the gully immediate to the left of the corner.


Protection 

Stoppers and cams up to a #3 or #4 Camalot. Gear/tree anchor.



Photos of Crack Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Crack Corner follows the parallel cracks up the right-facing dihedral.
BETA PHOTO: Crack Corner follows the parallel cracks up the ri...
Routes on the far left side of Animal World. <br /> <br />Crack Corner, 7, gear. <br />Triple Play, 10a, gear & bolts. <br />Animal Riots Activist, 12a, bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Animal World.

Crac...
Kevin having fun.
Kevin having fun.
Comments on Crack Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 1, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Protection: Larger cams near the bottom (2-4 inches) and then one small stopper for the last few feet.

By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 3, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

At the bulge, you can get in a #1 or #2 cam before you pull over. The move is fun with good friction stemming and decent hand jams. The rest of the climb is fun and blocky, and much easier (5.5-5.6).

By R. Wilson
Jul 20, 2009

Permanant anchors have been added to the top of this route.

By DamageVic
From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
Aug 28, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

OK climb, very convenient for TR'ing 'Triple Play'.
I used:
2 #8 Metolius
1 #7 Metolius
1 clear Alien
1 black Alien
#4, 2 & 1 Lowe Balls (way up high in the roof crack near the end).

By E Johnson
From: Boulder, CO
May 28, 2012

The dihedral crack turned out to be wider than anticipated and for most of the climb. I'd advise bringing at least 1 if not 2 #4s. Two #3s would have been handy as well. Using my largest piece, a #3, early left me with nothing to protect below and through the bulge. I chose to downclimb and back clean instead of taking the risk.

By Jason Maki
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Leave the cams at home on this one. It is easily protected with hand to fist-sized hexes and a set of stoppers. Rock quality in the crack is questionable, although there are bomber jams and good edges all the way up.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I did not see the comment above about anchors being added, so we used the anchor on Triple Play.