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Crack Climbing (Reopened, but unmoderated, post at own risk)
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Dec 31, 2008
Climbing So Wild at Thunder Ridge photo by Kevin M...
John Langston wrote:
Lets say you've got a regular partner but you go ahead and climb with someone else. Should you avoid letting your regular partner know? Should you invite the new partner to climb with the two of you? Do you have any strategies for efficiently climbing in a party of three?



Have the leader trail a second rope and fix it to the anchor then one of the other climbers self belays with a mini traxion while the last climber is belayed by the leader. I've only done it a couple of time but it seems to work really well on multi pitch routes. I know someone who did this on the Scenic Cruise.
Christopher Jones
From Denver, Colorado
Joined Jan 31, 2005
967 points
Jan 1, 2009
Growing a winter coat in Red Rock Canyon- December...
Let's get the balls rolling.

Tony Bubb wrote:
Anyone here going to admit to having experience stacking pieces...


Tony, in your experience, what happens if you bust a nut while stacking pieces? Is the weakest link removed, or do you work it? I bet things can get messy, and compromise the stability of the other pieces. Have you figured this out mathmatically yet?
Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Joined May 25, 2005
4,468 points
Jan 1, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
Gigette Miller wrote:
Have you figured this out mathmatically yet?

Or conducted a thorough Failure Analysis?
Tested pieces to destruction? (Wanna see the Youtube link for that one.)
Tested pieces to 50% strength rating?
Performed hang and pull tests?
Compared domestic and foreign gear?
Stacked sheathed with unsheathed tools?
Charted respective friction coefficients?
Compared cleaning and removal with multiple pieces?
Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Joined Mar 4, 2008
313 points
Jan 1, 2009
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Gigette Miller wrote:
Tony, in your experience, what happens if you bust a nut while stacking pieces?


I never claimed or admitted to stacking pieces. You'll have to ask an aid-climber. They may have additional observations as well, about climbing with parties of 3 and short-fixing and all.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Jan 2, 2009
You can love your rope but you can't "LOVE&qu...
Back in the day, when I was young, I had a big rack consisting of rigid pitons...I could nail cracks all day long.

But when you get older, the pro becomes more passive and it just isn't as easy to place.
Lee Smith
Joined Sep 5, 2003
1,686 points
Jan 5, 2009
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Lee Smith wrote:
Back in the day, when I was young, I had a big rack consisting of rigid pitons...I could nail cracks all day long. But when you get older, the pro becomes more passive and it just isn't as easy to place.


So what are you saying Lee? That you'd rather go sailing? Is that your boat in the background:

mountainproject.com/v/tony_bub...
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Jan 7, 2009
You can love your rope but you can't "LOVE&qu...
No sailing for me. I don't like seafood. I was actually trying to kill the thread but it didn't work. Lee Smith
Joined Sep 5, 2003
1,686 points
Aug 2, 2009
Sorry Lee, I just can't let you kill this classic. I mean, so what if it gets polished like the first pitch of the Bastille Crack? It's still super-fun! Besides, I was thinkin' of it the other day as I was bleedin' all over Chockstone; you know, markin' my territory. For me, as it goes, I like my cracks bloody! jcntrl
From Smoulder, CO
Joined Jun 27, 2008
20 points
Aug 3, 2009
soloing Boulder Canyon Upper Falls
eeeeewwwww Micahisaac
From Longmont, CO
Joined Apr 4, 2006
108 points
Oct 27, 2012
dream canyon fun!
wide for life it's a telling style ... keeps yer hart true
keeping it real
keeping it real
Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Joined Jan 14, 2010
3,256 points
Oct 27, 2012
omg
I've never been in a crack before, but I've got the gear just waiting to be used. If someone wants to show me how to do it, I'd really appreciate it.
I'm glad this thread is back.
ChristopherAust
From Ohio
Joined Jul 28, 2012
68 points
Oct 27, 2012
I love stuffing my mits deep inside a nice smooth often polished crack however of I can't find a hand sized crack just getting my ballnutz in a thin crack usually keeps me happy martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Joined Jul 20, 2010
228 points
Oct 27, 2012
Sometimes staying in a crack too long will shred my skin. At this point I like to get out and transition onto the face Daniel Winder
Joined Jul 13, 2009
109 points
Oct 27, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
John Marsella wrote:
A some point, you may find a crack route you really like, and it becomes your only crack route.

Fairy tails.
The reality is that you get tired of driving around looking for FA's and you settle in.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Oct 29, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Is that River Rock? Same grain to my eye.

I like this, how you say, clack climbing?
Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,367 points
Oct 29, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
johnnyrig wrote:
Does this crack make my hand look small?

Nah... the tiny size of your tiny little hand makes your tiny little hand look small. (giggle)
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Oct 29, 2012
Eiger summit
A clear case of penis envy...

Big Bros
Big Bros
Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Joined Sep 27, 2001
647 points
Oct 29, 2012
Lee Smith wrote:
Back in the day, when I was young, I had a big rack consisting of rigid pitons...I could nail cracks all day long. But when you get older, the pro becomes more passive and it just isn't as easy to place.
This thread is awesome, especially Lee's comment.

Sometimes I like passively protecting cracks, and when they pull and I look down at the stuff that slid down to my belayer, I just pray that nothing bad will happen.
Getting all those fancy contraptions involved sometimes takes away from the quick thrill, so occasionally I boulder cracks for a quick top out, and when my partner can't send the problem I still tell them they did a good job.
Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Joined Mar 6, 2008
2,900 points
Oct 30, 2012
CoR
Friends don't let friends climb on crack. rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Oct 30, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
rging wrote:
Friends don't let friends climb on crack.

Lousy wing man you'd be.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Oct 31, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
The face is more important than the crack. Now matter how big, smooth, round or long the crack, I'd still rather get on somethin with a perty face. bygones bro. bygones. Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Oct 31, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
Brian wrote:
A clear case of penis envy...


haha brilliant.
Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Oct 31, 2012
Goofin on the Frogs Head Arch before I rap off.
I think for me getting into the cracks was an aquired taste. I had a hard time commiting to the crack, and generally complained. Now I am reaching a point where I love the movement and the feeling of reaching my hand or fist deep into a crack that just squeezes around it perfectly. Then wedging a foot in, and torquing it real good and tight. Mmmmmm just the though of how it feels to be in a good perfectly sized crack is getting me excited right now. Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Joined Apr 11, 2012
155 points
Oct 31, 2012
DEVILS TOWER
Protection is the key to any good crack know your rack and dont use up your gear before the end you may need some protection near the top. Beta is always good from reliable sources, but I have never seen a crack I didnt want to jam. Loyd Wofford III
Joined Feb 9, 2009
55 points


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