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Crack Climbing (Reopened, but unmoderated, post at own risk)
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By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
Aug 11, 2008

I enjoy cracks. There is just something satisfying about inserting your hand into a dark crack and pulling hard. I have a good set of big nuts and Iím not afraid to really squirm myself into a wide crack, although when itís really wide, I prefer a bigger rack. I have good stamina, but sometimes when it gets too hard I can come off quick. But, I always get back on and finish well after a rest.

If anyone would like to comment on this, feel free, but I must insist that you STAY ON TOPIC!


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Aug 11, 2008
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

The only thing about a big crack is you run the risk of not having a big enough cam to get the job done right....


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By SirVato
From Boulder
Aug 11, 2008
Profile

For sure !!
The Rack HAS to match the Crack
in fact, if I cant squeeze my nuts in the front
then I put my gear deep in the back!!!


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Aug 11, 2008
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

Rich Servantes III wrote:
For sure !! The Rack HAS to match the Crack in fact, if I cant squeeze my nuts in the front then I put my gear deep in the back!!!


Finger jammin is were its at, any crack I have to throw a fist into to get a good feel just doesnt cut it for me.....I try to keep my rack just the right size....dont want it to sag but you cant climb light either!


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By kirra
Aug 11, 2008

NSFOD I'm curious if your love for crack is non-discriminating..?

I luv cracks too but tend to snub the ones that are overclimbed & overchalked. With the exception of da'Creek -I prefer 'em as sharp & as natural as possible


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By SirVato
From Boulder
Aug 11, 2008
Profile

Nobody likes a blownout, overused crack!! Always feel insecure when your in 'em like, "geez I hope my friends don't see this".


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By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
Aug 11, 2008

kirra wrote:
NSFOD I'm curious if your love for crack is non-discriminating..?


I know some guys like jamming cracks with big bros, and I'm not personally against it in any way. Some people like alternative gear options. But for me, I think I prefer to take a straight route, and slot my gear where it seems like it was meant to fit.


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By mtoensing
From Boulder
Aug 11, 2008
Props to my home state show

Crack!!!!

It is what i live for. I love annoying my friends with crack jokes and everytime i get the chance, i tell my mom i am addicted to crack. Indian creek i will see you soon.


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By kirra
Aug 11, 2008

pranakickass wrote:
Indian creek i will see you soon.

Ha..!! I'm putting it out there I'm up for a fall-group-trip to da creek. Got many cams for the pile ~ heh heh :)~


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By Buff Johnson
Aug 11, 2008
smiley face

Ya know, don't underestimate the fun to be had with climbing all over jugs.


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By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
Aug 11, 2008

kirra wrote:
Ha..!! I'm putting it out there I'm up for a fall-group-trip to da creek. Got many cams for the pile ~ heh heh :)~


Whoa, now...this could be a bit of thread creep here. Trip arrangement is best done via PM.

Anything related to loving cracks, inserting devices into cracks, or otherwise engaging cracks for the purpose of personal physical and emotional satisfaction in on topic.

Let's keep this on a steady crack-track people. I want the RSS feeds clean on this one and I don't want to see my name again on Langston's next poll.


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By kirra
Aug 11, 2008

Not So Famous Old Dude wrote:
Whoa, now...this could be a bit of thread creep here. Trip arrangement is best done via PM. Anything related to loving cracks, inserting devices into cracks, or otherwise engaging cracks for the purpose of personal physical and emotional satisfaction in on topic. Let's keep this on a steady crack-track people. I want the RSS feeds clean on this one and I don't want to see my name again on Langston's next poll.

np NSFOD ~ sorry for pushin' the envelope a bit, i miss IC :)~

your name on that poll might still be referring to prior posts on raptors ~ heh heh

Not So Famous Old Dude wrote:
I know some guys like jamming cracks with big bros, and I'm not personally against it in any way. Some people like alternative gear options. But for me, I think I prefer to take a straight route, and slot my gear where it seems like it was meant to fit.

my crack question earlier was referring more to the quality of the crack vs. the size. Are you indifferent to slippery vs sharp..?
(ha-ha just notice the (moderated) addition)


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Aug 11, 2008
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

kirra wrote:
np NSFOD ~ sorry for pushin' the envelope a bit, i miss IC :)~ your name on that poll might still be referring to prior posts on raptors ~ heh heh my crack question earlier was referring more to the quality of the crack vs. the size. Are you indifferent to slippery vs sharp..? (ha-ha just notice the (moderated) addition)


I like a nice tight crack....I carry a good size cam but I dont like riskign over extension....especially in some worn out rock!!!! and just a side note, a lil slippery crack never hurt anyone....makes thing come together easier.


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By AJS
From Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2008
In the sea of Cortez - Baja California, Mexico

What about those guys who got good gear in a beautiful crack, then bolted...that's just wrong!


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Aug 11, 2008
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

AJS wrote:
What about those guys who got good gear in a beautiful crack, then bolted...that's just wrong!


ehhh their probly tourists.....


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By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
Aug 11, 2008

kirra wrote:
my crack question earlier was referring more to the quality of the crack vs. the size. Are you indifferent to slippery vs sharp..?


Ah, I see. For me, crack quality and size aren't necessarily related. But, I do think one's perception of quality probably depends on one's personal style and whether one has the right sized gear for the job. For me, I'm basically in the middle of the road. I have a bit of a tough time slipping in deep enough to get a really solid grip on a thin crack, but wide flares tend to exhaust me. So, while I can appreciate the aethestic beauty of a a neat, trim, little curving seam, and I stand in awe of the insurmountable looking deep and wide fissures, I am probably most at home on the continuous splitters that are "right-sized" for my equipment and technique.

Slippery is fine, provided that I know I'm going to get a good stance and a rest at some point. The sometimes frenetic effort required to maintain sufficient friction for a rewarding outcome in a slippery crack can be quite tiring. I find sharp cracks a bit painful, but as long as we're not talking about interstice dentata, then this can be mitigated by applying a thin, prophylactic layer of some type of flexible, but durable material.


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Aug 11, 2008
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

I really just like gettin jiggy with my crack, I mean whats the most creative way I can climb that crack and set my gear ya dig??


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By YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Aug 11, 2008
Korea 1 1975

I like to climb my cracks Sloowww and Eaassyy...then after the climb, at the end of the day, bask in the after glow.


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By kirra
Aug 11, 2008

seth0687 wrote:
I really just like gettin jiggy with my crack, I mean whats the most creative way I can climb that crack and set my gear ya dig??

if yer into 'crack-gear' - check out the off-set cams where one lobe is smaller/larger than the other. It's good for those 'pod' spots where yu may be wantin to put your hand where that cam should go

Scott M. Mossman wrote:
I like to climb my cracks Sloowww and Eaassyy...then after the climb, at the end of the day, bask in the after glow.

ditto nice w/or w/o a cold-frosty somthin :)


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By Matthew Prom
From West Saint Paul, MN
Aug 11, 2008
Taylors Falls also has some White Water Kayaking

I was going at a crack once, and was even fist deep for awhile, when all of a sudden my belayer gave me a good jerk and I had to bail before losing my gear in the crack.

You don't want to lose your gear in the crack. Most people find this out too late.

And for those cracks that are always being used, they are fun, that is for sure. Otherwise they wouldn't be used so much. But yeah, eventually your gear doesn't stay in very well because it has been over-used.


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Aug 11, 2008
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

kirra wrote:
if yer into 'crack-gear' - check out the off-set cams where one lobe is smaller/larger than the other. It's good for those 'pod' spots where yu may be wantin to put your hand where that cam should go ditto nice w/a cold-frosty somthin


ehhh not so much into gear unless thats the name of the game....I like soloing....nothing more satisfying then getting the job done right yourself.

and I second that cold frosty something.


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By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Aug 11, 2008
Growing a winter coat in Red Rock Canyon- December 2013.

I tend to stay outside of cracks as much as possible (Red Rock lover) because it seems like the times I have tried to move deep into cracks, I've felt too much awkward resistance, and it disrupted the rest of my moves I had visualized. Plus I never know how rotten it could be inside the crack; I may jam, and feel around in it for a bit, but not until I'm well protected.


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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Aug 11, 2008
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wall.

I find the greatest growth and rewards come from identifying a great crack early in your climbing career, and committing to it, specializing in it, and climbing it often, with gear, without, learning all about it inside and out...really become an expert in that one crack. Sometimes the jams are so good and relaxing, they practically lull me to sleep.

Don't get me wrong; I like climbing new places and appreciate a good face climb as much as the next guy. Faces are beautiful, but somehow less personal and committing. I've never got my foot stuck on a face. I've never drawn blood on a face. I've never lost gear inside a face. Cracks are special.


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Aug 11, 2008
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

Shawn Mitchell wrote:
I find the greatest growth and rewards come from identifying a great crack early in your climbing career, and committing to it, specializing in it, and climbing it often, with gear, without, learning all about it inside and out...really become an expert in that one crack. Sometimes the jams are so good and relaxing, they practically lull me to sleep. Don't get me wrong; I like climbing new places and appreciate a good face climb as much as the next guy. Faces are beautiful, but somehow less personal and committing. I've never got my foot stuck on a face. I've never drawn blood on a face. I've never lost gear inside a face. Cracks are special.


spoken by a true crack proffesional.....

I had my own special crack for a while and then it bucked me off for some other climber.....I about hung up my rack....but now I'm starting out easy and looking for some sport routes until I'm ready to bury the gear again!!!!


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By Mark Koch
Aug 11, 2008

When working a new crack protection is always used. The question is, does one stay with passive or go to active right away.


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By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Aug 11, 2008
Growing a winter coat in Red Rock Canyon- December 2013.

I suppose it can be pretty exciting for some to struggle with a big bro in the crack, but I avoid it at all costs. Too much of a pain to handle. I guess it takes practice, but I'm just not interested.


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