Crack Climbing in Joshua Tree

Next month I'm heading to Disneyland and I've got one climbing day which I will spend in Joshua Tree. Any suggestions for must do crack climbs 5.10 or 5.11's...one area, easy to find, with multiple lines would be ideal? Coarse and Buggy looks good.

JT, the Hidden Valley area can be busy, but it's full of JTree "super-classic" crack climbs that are right in your strike zone (5.10). All of the climbs below are relatively close to each other. I've put them in the order that you might encounter them if you're walking.

The Real Hidden Valley:
Fisticuffs (5.10b) on Tumbling Rainbow
Illusion Dweller (5.10c) on the Sentinel
Clean and Jerk (5.10b) on Sports Challenge Rock

Hidden Valley Campground:
Bearded Cabbage (5.10c) on the Old Woman
Hobbit Roof (5.10b) on the Blob

Echo Rock Area:
O'Kelley's Crack (5.10c)
Wangerbanger (5.11c)
Touch and Go (5.9)

These are all terrific top-of-the-list climbs. Have fun.

+1 for illusion dweller

I do not love the often short and choosy climbing at j tree, but illusion dweller changed my mind about the place. Have fun!

illusion dweller and clean + jerk rock socks. i.d. was easier for me. direct start for c+j takes a blue alien (i tested it). enjoy!

Thanks for the route ideas. Much appreciated.

Nick Grant wrote:JT, the Hidden Valley area can be busy, but it's full of JTree "super-classic" crack climbs that are right in your strike zone (5.10). All of the climbs below are relatively close to each other. I've put them in the order that you might encounter them if you're walking. The Real Hidden Valley: Fisticuffs (5.10b) on Tumbling Rainbow Illusion Dweller (5.10c) on the Sentinel Clean and Jerk (5.10b) on Sports Challenge Rock Hidden Valley Campground: Bearded Cabbage (5.10c) on the Old Woman Hobbit Roof (5.10b) on the Blob Echo Rock Area: O'Kelley's Crack (5.10c) Wangerbanger (5.11c) Touch and Go (5.9) These are all terrific top-of-the-list climbs. Have fun.

HDCG/outback
-jumping jack crack
-hot rocks

if you only have one day, id avoid bearded cabbage and hobbit roof.

Chalk up another one .... is good also.

Ace of Spades and Popular Mechanics. They are 5.9 but still pretty sweet lines, especially on a hot day (shaded).

Good list from Nick, though Bearded Cabbage isn't much of crack climb since by the time you get established in the crack, it's pretty much over, and Hobbit Roof is pretty short.

If you have only a day and are solid on .10/.11, hit the Rusty Wall (O'Kelleys and Wangerbanger), head over to Touch and Go, swing by Hot Rocks, then Coarse and Buggy (though if driving by and no one is on it, you probably should hop on that first). If you still have some left, hit Winds of Whoopee. You can drop some off that list if you want to do Illusion Dweller, which is as great as advertised. Clean and Jerk is great, but climbs more like a face climb than crack. More Monkey than Funky (.11b) is really good as well and close to the Echo area if you want to tag that too.

There are lots of other great crack climbs, but will require a bit more time to get to. Most of the stuff people have named so far has a pretty short approach. The White Cliffs of Dover (Popular Mechanics, etc.) is really good, almost Yosemite type rock, but it's a half hour walk to get to.

Additionally
Bird of Fire 10a
The Exorcist 10a

Some of my favs!