Crack Class 5.10a R
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"Crack Class"
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Description Super route! Start with a curving finger crack (10a) then jam up a nice splitter from fingers to large hands to a ledge. Belay here. Next, Chimney up behind the unprotected giant leaning block, Once on top of the block traverse climbers left to where the block ends, locate hand crack on opposite wall, sack up and step across from the block to the main wall ( a fall here would be bad) and jam up the fun 5.8 hand crack. Build anchor on top and rap down " Pre-Emptive Strike" on the North West Side.
Location South West side of Bracksieck's Pillar. The starting curved crack is easily seen once on the SW side. Rap the NW side from chain anchors.
Protection Doubles from .5 to #3 Camalot, set of nuts and TCU's
By Adam Floyd
From: Almo, Idaho and Las Vegas
Sep 16, 2011
| Found the #1 and .75 camalot sizes to work well. Don't forget Cool Crack to the left! |
By Greg Barnes
May 30, 2012
| The 2nd pitch step-across and slab traverse to the crack are X rated in my opinion - a fall would likely see the rope simply fall down the offwidth and you'd deck into the rock/slab somewhere way down there (assuming the rope didn't cut on something deep in the offwidth). |
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