Super route! Start with a curving finger crack (10a) then jam up a nice splitter from fingers to large hands to a ledge. Belay here. Next, Chimney up behind the unprotected giant leaning block, Once on top of the block traverse climbers left to where the block ends, locate hand crack on opposite wall, sack up and step across from the block to the main wall ( a fall here would be bad) and jam up the fun 5.8 hand crack. Build anchor on top and rap down " Pre-Emptive Strike" on the North West Side.
South West side of Bracksieck's Pillar. The starting curved crack is easily seen once on the SW side. Rap the NW side from chain anchors.
Doubles from .5 to #3 Camalot, set of nuts and TCU's
|By Adam Floyd|
From: Las Vegas
Sep 16, 2011
Found the #1 and .75 camalot sizes to work well. Don't forget Cool Crack to the left!
|By Greg Barnes|
May 30, 2012
The 2nd pitch step-across and slab traverse to the crack are X rated in my opinion - a fall would likely see the rope simply fall down the offwidth and you'd deck into the rock/slab somewhere way down there (assuming the rope didn't cut on something deep in the offwidth).
|By B Light|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 20, 2014
I am a conservative/safe climber. My rack's are usually more than most people would take, but I like to sow it up.
X Rating is legit for the step across. Not more than 5.7.. but still X.
Doubles .3-3, Single Yellow C3
Extra .75's for the first pitch
Extra #1's for the second pitch
1st Pitch- The arching crack is the hard part. Eats up .75's and a few #1's.
After that it is hero hand crack (#2's #3's).
Anchor ... could use .3's and .4's & Yellow C3.
The Chimney is extremely secure and fun... until you have to step across. Take a moment to figure out your best line.
After the step across it is awesome 5.8 thin hands (this the upper section of Cool Crack).
Anchor - Take it to the chains of Pre-emtive Strike.