Scramble up to the ledge where this beautiful splitter crack begins. Push past the low roof with tight hands and prepare for one of the best handcracks in the red. Jam for the next 60 feet in the parallel sided crack until you hit the fist and offwidth section but its short lived. Clip the anchors and remind your self that your in the Red.
Walk towards the Fibrulator and pass it staying along the wall. The next line you come across will be Crack Attack.
Multiple Camming units in the hand size and a fist size. This crack doesn't vary much in size so bring at least 4 #2 camalots or equivilent to stretch it thin.
|By Chris Prewitt|
Apr 28, 2009
On a couple occasions I recall there being a damp section in the middle of the crack around where it doglegs right. Not enough to stay away, but a little more interesting that way.
Excellent splitter. Makes you rethink why this is called Indian Creek Crag.
From: Somerville, MA
Nov 11, 2009
I don't entirely agree about bringing four #2's... the crack does vary a bit. I was able to safely do it with two #1's, two #2's, and two #3's, plus draws for the anchors.
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
one of the best cracks in the south!!
|By Peter L K|
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jun 7, 2010
I'm curious what this would be graded if it was at the real Indian Creek.
|By Matt Glue|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2010
Awesome climb! Wish it went on forever :) Yea, can be done with 2 each of #1, #2, #3. But the more #2s the better...
From: Red River Gorge
Mar 20, 2011
I placed four golds, four reds, two blues, and a green and felt comfortable. You can certainly do with less, but if you are a crack wuss like me, a bigger rack might make you feel more comfortable. Also, I may have broken my foot jamming this thing.