All Locations > Connecticut > Western Highlands > St John's Ledges > Upper Ledges

Crack-and-Up

Name: Crack-and-Up
Rating: 3.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Upper Ledges

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arch of Delight (aka The Corner) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Around the corner TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Athlete's Feat TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Blisters (aka Waterfall) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Class 4 Scramble T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
	Crack-and-Up TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Falling Bodies TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	No Gear TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Quartz Wall TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Slab to Corner TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Slickrock TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
	Super Slab TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
	T.B.D. T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Trail Magic T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Trail Magic Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Unnamed 1 TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	UnNamed 2 TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Type:	TR, 115 ft (35 m)
FA:	Tom Carruthers & Mark Wenzel ~ 1978
Page Views:	1,325 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Robert Hall on Oct 28, 2013
Admins:	Morgan Patterson Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Start at the left-facing inside corner 15 ft left of Trail Magic (See Photo). Climb the face just to the left of the corner, the corner and the cracks above (5.7). When the crack ends [ALT] continue straight up on thin friction and crimpers (5.9 +/-?) until one reaches easier climbing, then move to the tree anchor at the top of Trail Magic.

ALTernate: Traverse left to "No Gear". Finish on that route, or move up it 25-30 ft, then move up rightwards following a weakness (with some gear) to the top of "Trail Magic". (5.5-5.6)

Location

See START in Description

Protection

The bottom could be protected and has been led; but the slab would need a bolt or two. If the climb is TR'd from the Trail Magic tree-anchor, a directional (green Alien) can be placed in a crack 25-30ft above the crux moves.