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Crack and heel hook alternatives to Miura VS - Shoe suggestions
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By bazinga
From Minneapolis, MN
Apr 7, 2013

Okay, so I recently got the Miura VS which is just fabulous and has lifted my climbing by a grade or may be even 2. But here's my difficulty. I climb mostly in the gym and am finding it difficult to pull off a few boulder moves as well as using the Miura VS on some cracks. I cant seem to smear or heel hook as well as my old Tarantula which is strange. Should I get another shoe for this? Or should I be able to pull this off on my Miura VS (I know you can do them all but it seems so much harder).

Any suggestion on what might be a good second shoe to be used in the gym? I am thinking that this might also be a good way to preserve my Miura VS longer as well.

FWIW, I climb 5.10c/d and a few 5.11s.


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By Taylor Lais
From Sioux Falls, SD
Apr 7, 2013

Miura VS's are not crack shoes. Jamming in them sucks. If you want crack shoes, get some trusty moccs or consider the new fiveten stonelands. Check out this thread:
mountainproject.com/v/five-ten-stonelands/108011061


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By bazinga
From Minneapolis, MN
Apr 7, 2013

Thanks Taylor. Cracks aren't the only concern though. I like those shoes. Will check them out but they're fairly pricey considering I am only looking out for a second pair.


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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Apr 7, 2013
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH

Two purposes, two shoes. If you want to edge and heelhook, you'll have a tight aggressive shoe and your toes will be curled. If you want to crack climb, you will have a snug, but flat-last shoe with a thinner toe profile, definitely not curled. Compromises that accomplish two polar opposites (well) are not likely...


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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Apr 8, 2013
blah

I managed to get one shoe to do both. the Blanco from five ten in my street shoe size. I crank the laces in and its my go to shoe for hard sport and some less steep bouldering. I let the laces out for crack. I climb super steep stuff in the Muira VS for the support of a stiffer sole and a shape that fits my feet really well.


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