Crack a Smile
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Finding placements for pro isn't rocket science on...
I haven't been able to find out any history on this route; Chris Watford (Dixie Cragger's Atlas) says people have been climbing it for years, but he's never heard of a name for it or who did the FA. I got tired of calling it un-named, so I just gave it one. It didn't rate inclusion in the guide book, but it's a fun line nevertheless, and the good opportunities for protection make it a nice choice for the novice trad leader.
Starting about 20' right of the Standard Route boulder, you'll see an obvious zig-zagging vertical crack system. Follow this up the face and on to the top.
Starts between the Standard Route's alternate start and Lands of Time. Best option for rapping is to pull the rope when you get to the top and move over to the Standard Route anchors to rap.
Plentiful; medium cams and passive pro. Build a gear anchor (extend it well), or belay from the top at the Standard Route bolted anchor.
Oct 23, 2007
always called it the Standard Direct. Best top out is not to skirt left at top to anchors but go over the highest point...although it juts out abit, there are big holds.
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Oct 27, 2008
At the top, you can build a belay anchor at a small boulder. Simply rap off rap anchors @ standard route.