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 ADVANCED
The Pinnacle
Select Route:
Alternate Start T 
Comfortably Numb T,TR 
Crack a Smile T 
Diane S 
Green Gully T 
Hairbrained T 
Logan's Run (White Liquor?) T 
Loosy Goosy T 
Magical Branding Iron T 
Pin Chimney T 
Pin Chimney Direct T 
Standard Route T 
Valdez, The T 

Crack a Smile 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 805
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jun 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

I haven't been able to find out any history on this route; Chris Watford (Dixie Cragger's Atlas) says people have been climbing it for years, but he's never heard of a name for it or who did the FA. I got tired of calling it un-named, so I just gave it one. It didn't rate inclusion in the guide book, but it's a fun line nevertheless, and the good opportunities for protection make it a nice choice for the novice trad leader.

Starting about 20' right of the Standard Route boulder, you'll see an obvious zig-zagging vertical crack system. Follow this up the face and on to the top.

Location 

Starts between the Standard Route's alternate start and Lands of Time. Best option for rapping is to pull the rope when you get to the top and move over to the Standard Route anchors to rap.

Protection 

Plentiful; medium cams and passive pro. Build a gear anchor (extend it well), or belay from the top at the Standard Route bolted anchor.


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By gus
From: Alabama
Oct 23, 2007

always called it the Standard Direct. Best top out is not to skirt left at top to anchors but go over the highest point...although it juts out abit, there are big holds.
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Oct 27, 2008

At the top, you can build a belay anchor at a small boulder. Simply rap off rap anchors @ standard route.