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 ADVANCED
The Catacomb
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abbaye d'Orval T,S 
Contortionist's Forte T,S 
Crack a Smile T,S 
Gravestone S 
Headstones S 
Hot Zone, The S 
Mausoleum, The S 
Natural Born Driller S 
Saint Sixtus Scoop S 
Spider Line S 
Throw Me A Scone T 

Crack a Smile 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lawrence Stuemke, '94
Page Views: 3,294
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jun 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Midway up Crack a Smile.

Description 

Stellar mixed line. Rock reminiscent of Vestibule near Psychotomic. Located on the East side of the Catacomb, also across from Gravestone and Mausoleum - and just downhill from Contortionist's Forte. I started from the blocks and flakes, although the crack could be climbed to this same point. Standing on the block one can place a nut to protect the move to the first fixed gear. Climb past four (as of 6/6/04) pieces of fixed gear (leave em) on stellar fun laybacking and locks to a jug. Clip the first bolt. Pull through powerful and thought provoking moves past the two bolts to the anchors. Great line!


Protection 

As of 6/6/04 there were 4 fixed nuts as well as two bolts above and the 2 anchor bolts. A small/medium stopper protected the moves to the first fixed gear - you may need other supplemental gear.



Photos of Crack a Smile Slideshow Add Photo
Rob styling the lower crack....
Rob styling the lower crack....
The upper face is steep!
The upper face is steep!
Comments on Crack a Smile Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 16, 2004

I think those fixed wires have been there a while. Makes this route esentially a sport route, so non-trad climbers should not shy away from this one. One of the better 12's at the Monastary.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 22, 2004

Crack a Smile - you will when you complete this route! I think it is one of the best routes at the monestery. Nice fingerish crack to some powerful pulls past two bolts - Close to classic!

By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 8, 2007

Only 2 wires left in the crack as of today. Bring gear to lead.

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
May 12, 2008

Only one fixed wire left. Don't expect a sport lead. Excellent route.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Still only one fixed nut, there are good stances to place gear from though.

By Brian Weinstein
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

A bit too short for four stars but a nice line nonetheless. Start the crack from the ground (instead of high on the blocks) for full value. I found the crux after the first bolt.