Login with Facebook
Columns (aka Skinner Butte)
Select Route:
3rd Column Jam T,TR 
4th Column Jam T,TR 
Bat Crack T,TR 
Chimney, The T,TR 
Crack a No Go T 
Fat Crack T 
Hard Lieback T 
Left Ski Track T,TR 
Limp Dick T 
Main Chimney T,TR 
Satisfaction T 
Transportation Route T,TR 

Crack a No Go 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on May 5, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Thin and bouldery, this climb requires precise, powerful movements on the tiniest gear. That being said, it's fairly easy to top-rope yourself through all the hard moves, so, objectively, it's not really all that frightening. It's also one of the few uncontrived (or maybe least contrived) face climbs at the crag.

Start with technicial moves on good crimps to a solid foot on the arete and a no-hands. Place your first gear and set up for the crux stab to a jug. Fire in more gear and work out the easier but awkward lie-backing before the crack starts to open up. A final lunge off a tips-lock to the ledge and it's over. After manteling onto the ledge, choose your line to the chains.


Crack a No Go is the thin seam that splits the leaning face immediately left of Limp Dick and right of Satisfaction.


One blue ballnut, (or two if you want to double up on your first piece) two red ballnuts, and a grey Metolius will see you through the business. Bring whatever else you want for whichever line you pick off the ledge.

Comments on Crack a No Go Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!