This thin seam just right of Cruel Sister probably gets TR'ed more than any route in the gorge. Although the copious amounts of chalk on this route make it less asthetic it is still an elegent line that makes for a worthy endeavor.
The crux is more cryptic than difficult and finding the right pro can be dubious too.
A regular rack of cams and nuts should be complimented with mirco nuts, extras in the smallest cam sizes, and perhaps even a few offset nuts and cams
The route shares anchors with Cruel Sister.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
May 10, 2011
I'll never have the courage to lead, but an awesome TR. Cryptic moves that make the route seem harder for the grade until you figure them out.
From: Bend, OR
Aug 30, 2013
The gear doesn't seem too bad, but ya may want to go for the headpoint.
|By Matt Farrell|
From: Bend, Oregon
2 days ago
Tricky gear, especially at the start. At about 20' off the deck (just after the first big horizontal jug) you hit a flare that either takes an offset cam (maybe blue/yellow or yellow/orange mastercam), or you can just run it out and look at guaranteed groundfall if you blow it. The climbing is maybe mid-10 through this section, and you get good cams right after it and right before the crux.
The rest of the gear on the first 45' (all the hard climbing) is all blue-mastercam or smaller.
Unless you're very very solid at the grade, I would recommend at least trying to figure out the gear on lower before attempting to lead. Also, I still find the crux to be quite hard for the grade, even after doing it dozens of times.
Also to correct the description - it actually shares anchors with Blood Clot to the right, not Cruel Sister. Its not that awesome to TR from the Cruel Sister anchors.
And for a variation that is higher quality, try "Crack-A-No-Clot" - start on Crack-A-No-Go through the crux and once you hit the ledge halfway up, traverse a few feet to the right to finish up on the more aesthetic (and just as easy) Blood Clot.