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 ADVANCED
Road Cut, The
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Crack A No Go 
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Easy Street 
Escargot 
Herring Breath 
Hit and Run 
Itchy and Scratchy 
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Totem Pole 
Transmogrifier 

Crack A No Go 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 607
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 30, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Crack a no go is the line that follows the cracks ...

Description 

Climb the large dihedral and crack about 2 feet to the right of it up a block on the left side of the road cut. A brief period where the crack is too wide for fist jams is the crux.


Protection 

Pro to 4 inches, there's a smaller crack within the main one making most any sized gear usefull.There are two bolts atop the ledge for rappelling off, but they don't work so well to top rope from unless you use a long sling.



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By Patrick Mulligan
May 16, 2012

CONDITION REPORT 

The bolts have been moved and there are now two old style cold shuts on the face above the crack. We were going to continue up the crack as described in the new guidebook, but found the rock to be of poor quality. It was obvious the upper portion of the pitch had not been climbed in some time. The rock was very dirty and grainy with both feet and hands crumbling easily.

That said the bottom crack is pleasant and easy. Far easier for example than primer near the black wall.

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Oct 1, 2013

A short stout crack. A bit trickier to lead than it looks from the base. I don't know if I agree with the previous poster with regards to this crack vs. Primer, but I guess that's the beauty of climbing.