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BETA PHOTO: Crack-A-Lack
Thin and facey, then thin and traversy, then thin and bulgy. Regardless, it's... scarce. The route isn't too bad up to the traverse and small roof, but the crux is tres difficult.
Start in corner of open book, traverse right up obvious crack in face to small right overhang, go right two feet, up through roof to top.
Unknown. Gear anchor, or use bolts from Reach Around and use a directional. DO NOT attempt to run this route off only the Reach Around bolts; the higher you get, the worse your pendulum will be. Case in point -- I saw someone pull the crux, come off, and break their ankle when they hit the right-facing corner of Reach Around.
By Stevie Lo
Jul 4, 2009
At the crux, there is a crumbly two finger crimp to a two finger slot, with little feet. Difficult and fun, but expect a whipper. You should leave some slack on the line when heading into the small traverse and roof. As you want to fall below the ankle breaker, if in fact you do fall.
By Sean McAuley
Jun 2, 2013
Doesn't deserve the R. The face is fun and has ample pro, and the traverse is simple. When pulling the roof, place pro in the first pocket once you are finished with it...then pull and have some fun.