Crack-a-Go-Go 5.11c PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 105 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Harvey Carter, Pete Pederson, May 1967, FFA: Peter Livesey and Ron Fawcett 1974 |
| Season: | Spring and Fall |
| Submitted By: | Karsten on Oct 13, 2006 |
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Brad stylin' the onsight
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This fine granite jewel climbs through some prime real estate. The route starts as a seam that generally widens as you ascend. The crux comes down low but endurance is still needed on this rope stretcher. Be careful that your pro is placed carefully as this route has spit more than a few climbers and their gear to the ground.
Location This route can be accessed by going to the right of bev's tower and then cutting up a trail that winds over slick rocks. Do a few short 4th class moves to access a ledge system to access several climbs. The climb begins 30ft to the left of Outer Limits as a seam near a small tree.
When lowering or rapping watch the ends of your rope
Protection A standard rack of doubles and nuts should suffice although offset nuts or cams can be helpful down low on the route. Anchors are in a small alcove.
Scott looking for pro as he gets into ankle-twiste...
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I think you need a 70m rope to lower all the way t...
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John Bachar soloing Crack-a-Go-Go (5.11c), Yosemit...
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| Comments on Crack-a-Go-Go |
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By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Oct 16, 2006
| Medium Lowe-Ball was nice off the ground. The quality of this placement has been definitively tested! |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 16, 2007
| FFA Peter Livesey and Ron Fawcett 1974 (visiting Brits) |
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Sep 19, 2009
| Really, an amazing route. You can use the tree to place a bomber gray or purple cam in the left crack to protect the opening moves. That gets you to a tricky stance and some hard to place but solid small nuts. Fire the crux. Pretty straight forward from there but save a couple of small nuts for high on the route.
With a 60 m rope I was able to lower off but my belayer had to climb into the tree a few feet for me to reach the ground. |
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 23, 2010
| Techy, but the crux is somewhat powerful and dynamic for a few moves. Unless you (er, your partner) happens to have a wingspan of 6'7", +4 ape index, and climbs 5.12...then it's just techy.
This route has been known as Crack-a-No-Pro...according to one of my highly knowledgeable sources. |
By qGracey
From: Estes Park
Aug 30, 2010
| I recall getting a great little red bd cam (super little) somewhere about the crux.
The climb seemed to keep on for me, eased up a little but I guess I grunted so hard at the bottom, I got all out of sorts and couldn't relax. Great climb at the grade!!! |
By alpinista83
From: San Francisco, CA
May 18, 2011
| Crack a no-pro? Crack a no-go? Not really. It's a tough climb and the gear is a bit tricky, but it's 11c.. so yeah.
If you're not a purist, you can tree stem pretty high to protect the start with a BD .5 or even a high .4 and come back down. I did not come back down.
Small offset nuts, blue alien, triple and double zero C3s to protect the crux. A green alien can fit in the suspect flake on the right. If you place as much gear as I did without slings, rope drag can be a problem. Didn't look like an issue for the other 4 that hiked it right after me.
Super cool route. |
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 20, 2011
| Yah, alpinista, that nickname was coined when your microcams and Ball Nuts didn't exist. Might make your experience a bit different. |
By alpinista83
From: San Francisco, CA
May 20, 2011
| Absolutely. Without tiny springy pro, it would have definitely been a No-Go. But most people hike up with micro cams now, so let's do away with the spook moniker.
It's G-rated with modern gear and yes, appropriately, 11b unless you're putting it up with lilliputian passive pro and perhaps some 2 - 3'' nuts.
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By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012
| P1 cleaned: Roger Breedlove, by 1974 |
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Feb 11, 2013
| Never heard the Crack of no pro remark, even as far back as the late 70s when I first started climbing there. The pro is there even with passive gear, just that much harder to place.
BTW, Livesey and Fawcett originally rated this .10+. Livesey wrote about this climb and others in an old Mountain magazine article titled "Arms Like Flies", a reference to the visiting Brits sometimes skinny physique when compared to some of the burly Americans. |
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