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The Cookie Cliff
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Aftershock T,TR 
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Anathema T 
Beverly's Tower T 
Butterballs T 
Butterfingers T 
Catchy T 
Catchy Corner T 
Chicken Delight TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cookie Left Side T 
Cookie Monster S 
Cookie-Center, The T 
Cookie-Right, The T 
Crack-a-Go-Go T 
Dynamite Crack 
Elevator Shaft, The T 
Enema, The T 
Enigma, The T 
Hardd T 
Jardine's Hand T 
Meat Grinder T 
Outer Limits T 
Pringles S 
Red Zinger T 
Renegade aka The Stigma, The T 
Twilight Zone T 
Twinkie T 
Vendetta T 
Waverly Wafer T 
Wheat Thin T 
Unsorted Routes:

Crack-a-Go-Go 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Harvey Carter, Pete Pederson, May 1967, FFA: Peter Livesey and Ron Fawcett 1974
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 5,904
Submitted By: Karsten on Oct 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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John Bachar soloing Crack-a-Go-Go (5.11c), Yosemit...

Description 

This fine granite jewel climbs through some prime real estate. The route starts as a seam that generally widens as you ascend. The crux comes down low but endurance is still needed on this rope stretcher. Be careful that your pro is placed carefully as this route has spit more than a few climbers and their gear to the ground.

Location 

This route can be accessed by going to the right of bev's tower and then cutting up a trail that winds over slick rocks. Do a few short 4th class moves to access a ledge system to access several climbs. The climb begins 30ft to the left of Outer Limits as a seam near a small tree.

When lowering or rapping watch the ends of your rope

Protection 

A standard rack of doubles and nuts should suffice although offset nuts or cams can be helpful down low on the route. Anchors are in a small alcove.


Photos of Crack-a-Go-Go Slideshow Add Photo
Brad stylin' the onsight
Brad stylin' the onsight
I think you need a 70m rope to lower all the way to the ground, but Brad and Dustin demonstrate the 60m rope technique.
I think you need a 70m rope to lower all the way t...
Scott looking for pro as he gets into ankle-twister territory
Scott looking for pro as he gets into ankle-twiste...

Comments on Crack-a-Go-Go Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 20, 2013
By Rob Dillon
Oct 16, 2006

Medium Lowe-Ball was nice off the ground. The quality of this placement has been definitively tested!
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 16, 2007

FFA Peter Livesey and Ron Fawcett 1974 (visiting Brits)
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Sep 19, 2009

Really, an amazing route. You can use the tree to place a bomber gray or purple cam in the left crack to protect the opening moves. That gets you to a tricky stance and some hard to place but solid small nuts. Fire the crux. Pretty straight forward from there but save a couple of small nuts for high on the route.

With a 60 m rope I was able to lower off but my belayer had to climb into the tree a few feet for me to reach the ground.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 23, 2010

Techy, but the crux is somewhat powerful and dynamic for a few moves. Unless you (er, your partner) happens to have a wingspan of 6'7", +4 ape index, and climbs 5.12...then it's just techy.

This route has been known as Crack-a-No-Pro...according to one of my highly knowledgeable sources.
By quinndalina
From: Estes Park
Aug 30, 2010

I recall getting a great little red bd cam (super little) somewhere about the crux.
The climb seemed to keep on for me, eased up a little but I guess I grunted so hard at the bottom, I got all out of sorts and couldn't relax. Great climb at the grade!!!
By alpinista83
From: San Francisco, CA
May 18, 2011

Crack a no-pro? Crack a no-go? Not really. It's a tough climb and the gear is a bit tricky, but it's 11c.. so yeah.

If you're not a purist, you can tree stem pretty high to protect the start with a BD .5 or even a high .4 and come back down. I did not come back down.

Small offset nuts, blue alien, triple and double zero C3s to protect the crux. A green alien can fit in the suspect flake on the right. If you place as much gear as I did without slings, rope drag can be a problem. Didn't look like an issue for the other 4 that hiked it right after me.

Super cool route.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 20, 2011

Yah, alpinista, that nickname was coined when your microcams and Ball Nuts didn't exist. Might make your experience a bit different.
By alpinista83
From: San Francisco, CA
May 20, 2011

Absolutely. Without tiny springy pro, it would have definitely been a No-Go. But most people hike up with micro cams now, so let's do away with the spook moniker.

It's G-rated with modern gear and yes, appropriately, 11b unless you're putting it up with lilliputian passive pro and perhaps some 2 - 3'' nuts.

By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

P1 cleaned: Roger Breedlove, by 1974
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Feb 11, 2013

Never heard the Crack of no pro remark, even as far back as the late 70s when I first started climbing there. The pro is there even with passive gear, just that much harder to place.

BTW, Livesey and Fawcett originally rated this .10+. Livesey wrote about this climb and others in an old Mountain magazine article titled "Arms Like Flies", a reference to the visiting Brits sometimes skinny physique when compared to some of the burly Americans.
By Drew Marshall
Dec 20, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Rad! one of the best at the cliff
Gear is a bit tricky and hard to see but bomber and plentiful, stances are tenuous but not too pumpy. I'd recommend 2 sets of small nuts, and a couple tiny cams!
Harder if you're not tall