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Bumbling Stock
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Crack a Beer T 
Desiderata S 

Crack a Beer 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: D. Mabe, spring 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,448
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Sep 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Crack a Beer, at the Bumbling Stock.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Low angled 5.7-5.8 climbing with inobvious pro leads to a stance (optional two-bolt belay of the Desiderata). Slightly overhanging wide fists and stacks for 20 feet (#3.5 -#4.5 Camalot). Higher up, it eases off considerably, with some jugs and face holds, and small pro options inside the crack. Hell, you could sling a chockstone for complete trad style. Finish at the anchors of the Desiderata.

Location 

If you can't identify this route, then you do not know what a splitter OW looks like. Start right of Desiderata up a lichened crack weakness and slab.

Protection 

Light SR up to #4.5 Camalot, some stoppers. The start protects with a medium sized Camalots. #0.75 or #1 Camalot if I remember right, as well as some Aliens and nuts.


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By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Sep 10, 2008

Thanks Darren, that looks like fun and knowing the gear makes things easier. How sustained is it and how technical? Cupped hand stacks or hand fist stacks or double fist stacks? Knee lock jambs, heel toe cams, stacked feet? Armbars and thrutching/locking off, with the hips/legs. What should be expected as I haven't lead a 5.10 OW really. Although I made it up Cupcake at the Voo, but it seems skinnier maybe.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 10, 2008

Can't give all the beta away... ;)
but looks like you're on the right track. The gear beta should be an indication of what techniques you will need. It's really not that sustained. Go do it! I am not much of an o-dubb guy, and I flashed it, if that helps. Besides, I have only been on it once, so rating is approximate until it has seen some more ascents.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 20, 2009

Just out of curiosity how does one get a FA that was a FLASH? (oh I think I get it, you rapped the line and scoped it first hu?) I was confused for a minute there.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 21, 2009

Yeah, I wouldn't give myself the onsight because I peeked at it when I bolted The Desiderata.
By Shawn Mitchell
From: Broomfield
Jul 22, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

After a slip getting started, I fired it, but... my strategy was sinking the right arm for very deep palm-up fist jams in the limited constrictions and a relentless gaston off the left edge. Fine on top rope but probably impossible to reconcile with the demands of placing and climbing past gear.
By Alison Conrad
Aug 13, 2009

I thought this was a challenging ow. I would recommend 3 4.5 size cams, although if you feel comfortable with that size 2 would work. I have small hands, so fists did not work. If the 4.5 size is a problem for you, then this is a great one to work on that size add the overhang and it is a tough workout. It definitely is easier for someone with bigger paws. I clearly missed the boat on this ow, and I love the ow.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Apr 26, 2010

Well I originally tried to lead this and got my ass handed to me, I almost made it to where it opens up for a knee near the top of the roof. I was hangdogging and went for it, almost getting to the easier bit, but my partner couldn't tell I was yelling "SLACK"! instead he thought I was saying take.... NO GOOD. Went back yesterday and got on it again, this time on TR, it's still tough on TR. I placed about 5 directional pieces on the way down, and hangdogged my ass up through the crux. The second time I mostly got it on my own power.

I found the key to be wide, double hand stacks and awkward feet (left on smears, and right tourquing and heel toe camming sort of for all it's worth as deep and high as possible, then sit up/stand on the left foot and move the stack up).

This thing is tough, and a heck of a work out, great practice though. I don't think I'll be leading it anytime soon, it seems the gear getting in the way makes it that much harder, not to mention it's hard to have enough of the right size cams for this one.

Nice work, Darren.... Now that I've blown my onsight attempt, care to share some beta???
By WadeM
Mar 23, 2012

Was thinking about heading out next week, but was wondering if I could set a TR fairly easily? I was planning on TR soloing the route. Any recommendations?
By George Bracksieck
Nov 11, 2013

Darren -- What happened to the excellent photo of you leading this? It was here last night. The substituted overview pic is informative, though.
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I fully admit I suck at OW, but this felt considerably harder than 5.10. Maybe if you have big paws and can get some decent fists it would help, but otherwise it's some pretty steep stacks or arm bars. Felt like Generator crack kicked back 20 degrees but fortunately the business is only for like 15 feet. Whatever the case, this thing is an awesome bit of crack climbing.

WMC - for setting a TR, I'm not sure, but it looked like you could scramble up the back of the formation and the anchors were on a good ledge. Otherwise aiding up it with a 4 and 5 would be pretty easy.