Crack a Beer 

Thanks Darren that looks like fun and knowing the gear makes things easier. How sustained is it and how technical? Cupped hand stacks or hand fist stacks or double fist stacks? Knee lock jambs, heel toe cams, stacked feet? Armbars and thrutching/locking off, with the hips/legs. What should be expected as I haven't lead a 5.10 OW really. Although I made it up Cupcake at the Voo, but it seems skinnier maybe.

Can't give all the beta away... ;)
but looks like youre on the right track. The gear beta should be an indication of what techniques you will need. It's really not that sustained. Go do it! I am not much of an o-dubb guy, and I flashed it, if that helps. Besides, I have only been on it once, so rating is approximate until it has seen some more ascents.

Just out of curiosity how does one get a FA that was a FLASH? (oh I think I get it, you rapped the line and scoped it first hu?) I was confused for a minute there.

Yeah, I wouldn't give myself the onsight because I peeked at it when I bolted The Desiderata.

After a slip getting started, I fired it, but... My strategy was sinking the right arm for very deep palm-up fist jams in the limited constrictions, and a relentless gaston off the left edge. Fine on top rope, but probably impossible to reconcile with the demands of placing and climbing past gear.

I thought this was a challenging ow. I would recommend 3 4.5 size cams, although if you feel comfortable with that size 2 would work. I have small hands and so fists did not work. If the 4.5 size is a problem for you then this is a great one to work on that size add the overhang and it is a tough workout. It definitely is easier for someone with bigger paws. I clearly missed the boat on this ow and I love the ow.

Well I originally tried to lead this and got my ass handed to me, I almost made it to where it opens up for a knee near the top of the roof. I was hang dogging and went for it, almost getting to the easier bit but my partner couldn't tell I was yelling "SLACK"! instead he thought I was saying take.... NO GOOD. Went back yesterday and got on it again, this time on TR, it's still tough on TR. I placed about 5 directional pieces on the way down, and hang dogged my ass up through the crux. The second time I mostly got it on my own power.

I found the key to be wide double hand stacks, and awkward feet (left on smears, and right tourquing and heel toe camming sort of for all it's worth as deep and high as possible, then sit up/stand on the left foot and move the stack up).

This thing is tough, and a heck of a work out, great practice though. I don't think I'll be leading it anytime soon, it seems the gear getting in the way makes it that much harder, not to mention it's hard to have enough of the right size cams for this one.

Nice work, Darren.... Now that I've blown my onsight attempt, care to share some beta???

Was thinking about heading out next week, but was wondering if I could set a TR fairly easily? I was planning on TR soloing the route. Any recommendations?