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Ice Cream Parlor
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Crack 3 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Gilje, Julie Sheld, 1995
Page Views: 3,221
Submitted By: Tradkelly on Dec 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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BETA PHOTO: Crack 3 (crack 1 Bjornstad). The left-mos...

Description 

The direct start is a 15' face of vertical unvarnished sandstone nubs to a short section of unvarnished slab. If led, this is a PG section and a spotter is recommended. The alternate approach is to traverse the lower slab from the blocks at the base of Crack 1.

Another good fingers and thin hands crack, with more surface fractures (varnish has broken off leaving pockets of sandstone beneath) for your feet. This is the 'stickiest' of the three cracks for your feet and not as intense as either Crack 1 or 2. Lead or TR this climb and use the Crack 1 anchors.


Protection 

Small gear (wires and cams to #1 camalot). Use the Crack 1 anchors (15' traverse at the end of the crack).



Photos of Crack 3 Slideshow Add Photo
Steve Thomas on the crux of Crack 3.
Steve Thomas on the crux of Crack 3.
Steve leading Crack 3.
Steve leading Crack 3.
Comments on Crack 3 Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
May 28, 2007

This route has its own anchors.

By Greg D
From: Here
Oct 15, 2009

Cracks 1, 2 and 3 are not even close to vertical.

By Josh Cameron
Jun 12, 2011

If you've done Crack 1, then give this guy a go. I felt it was slightly harder than the previous. For the upper half, I used small cams from a #1 to #3 Metolius. I liked the nature of this route: slab climbing on small nubins to a thin and inconsistent crack.

By Chris Perkins
From: Avon, Colorado
Oct 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This has 3 bolts on the lower section now. Not sure when they were added.