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Routes in The V Buttress
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Crabnebula T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Triplet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Working Man's Lament T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Zeb Jakub, Chris Magness, Dave Weston, 9/12 |
| Page Views: | 1,211 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | chris magness on Nov 25, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This line generally follows a dike just right of FOFs hand crack, is very well protected, and is a good line for a 5.10 leader to push their ability.
It is possible to climb the meat of Crabnebula in one 170 marathon pitch to a two bolt anchor, then scramble to the rappel tree. Pitching it out allows for better communication in cruxy areas:
P1: A sustained pitch. Make a committing move off the belay to a bolt up and left. Using holds on the arête, follow bolts around a bulge to a horizontal (pin), just right of FOFs hand crack. Pull another bulge and follow bolts and a dike to a stance on the left (same as FOF). Build a gear anchor. (5.11 a/b) 120
P2: Follow bolts straight up the slab until the angle eases. Belay at a two bolt anchor or continue up to the tree (5.10b) 100
It is possible to climb the meat of Crabnebula in one 170 marathon pitch to a two bolt anchor, then scramble to the rappel tree. Pitching it out allows for better communication in cruxy areas:
P1: A sustained pitch. Make a committing move off the belay to a bolt up and left. Using holds on the arête, follow bolts around a bulge to a horizontal (pin), just right of FOFs hand crack. Pull another bulge and follow bolts and a dike to a stance on the left (same as FOF). Build a gear anchor. (5.11 a/b) 120
P2: Follow bolts straight up the slab until the angle eases. Belay at a two bolt anchor or continue up to the tree (5.10b) 100
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