Type: Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Harrison, Broussard, Van Betten, 1982
Page Views: 2,642 total · 13/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Aug 18, 2007
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


20 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Crabby Appleton is a faint crack system that travels up the right wall of the Crabby Appleton Gully. Start on a large ledge just below a traversing line of huecos. Pitch 1: Climb up and then right along the huecos, eventually gaining a crack heading upward. Ascend the crack to a stance. 130', 5.7 Pitch 2: Climb the crack, pass an intermediate belay stance with a bad bolt, climbing to a better stance with a bolt and a pin. 190', 5.8 Pitch 3: Continue up the crack, following the corner on the left as it arches up and left. When it begins to arch severely, step right onto the face and follow it to the ledge above. 120', 5.9 Pitch 4: Climb right 20', then head up a faint crack system through an overhang and follow it to the summit. 120', 5.9 Descent: Walk toward the canyon proper (northwest), following the ridge until some steep 4th class or a short rappel off to the right (east) leads to a gully/ramp system heading back into Crabby Appleton gully. From here, follow the gully for 5-10 minutes back to the base of the route.

Location Suggest change

Follow the right hand wall of the Crabby Appleton gully up past a small chockstone and a waterfall to the base of a monstrous chockstone. Climb up on the right side of it, squeezing through the top. From here, walk up about 20-30', and make your way to a nice ledge on the right hand side about 20' up.

Protection Suggest change

A good assortment with a focus on the small to medium. A 4" cam comes in handy, but isn't mandatory.

Photos

loading