Located just south of Carmel, this and other nearby areas are a good choice if you get stuck in Monterrey visiting people that love golf. Climbing is... different. For huge cliff lovers, this probably isn't the place for you. For people that love the feel of short granite boulder problems, this will tease you, but probably won't appease you unless you're really hungry to climb.
There are no access fees. Nor are there very many people that bother to go much further than the pullouts, so this will be and feel very open and remote.
An interesting part of climbing in this and other local areas is that the rock is pretty solid, but is ever moving and changing due to tides and other weather related anomalies that hit the south facing coast. If you're willing to swim about 20 yards, there probably some first ascents awaiting you (I might be wrong.)
Crabs are present, but not overflowing. Gulls are around, as are seaweed. This is a great place to bring your kids - not for climbing but for checking out the tide pools. Let your kids play with the crabs as you boulder and toperope some interesting routes that consistently have horrible landings on slippery rocks and other oddities.
All routes can be walked off. All routes will have short difficult sections, mostly one move wonder climbing.
Climbing by locals has gone on for years, but it seems that not too many other people have moved in and adventured in the Big Sur area. Perhaps this will change.
From Carmel, head south until you see a small sign for Garrapata State Park on your right on a small hill. Park in the next pullout.
Head down to the beach via a sand trail that starts about 10 yards south of the parking pullout, heads into a wide sand section going south, and then forks towns the ocean again via a very faint trail.
If you lose the trail, get yourself over the lip and down onto the rocks where traveling is simpler NORTH of the narrow coves, where climbing is available to people that are considerably more insane then I. Climbing will be about 25 yards north of the parking area, with 2 distinct rocks that are actually tiny islands being the most notable landmarks of the area. There is accessible climbing on the larger and north-most one, as well as on the beach in the surrounding areas.
Weather station 7.0 miles from here
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Oct 28, 2003
More information on this area can be found in Mountain Tools climbing beta section.