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Crab Salad 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Terry Andrews
Page Views: 827
Submitted By: Christopher Marks on May 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Chimney up the South Chimney unprotected to ledge and climb the finger crack up to next ledge. Climb directly up the middle of the headwall to bump up the grade to 5.9 or Traverse to far right (east) corner and ascend up good edges with great exposure.

    Location 

    South chimney/face of crab eyes

    Protection 

    Nuts and cams up to 3


    Comments on Crab Salad Add Comment
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    By Craig Childre
    From: Lubbock, Texas
    Jun 13, 2012

    I'm not positive, but I believe this route was identified in the Lohn guidebook as "The Arete" as a 5.7 R. Terry would know more than I. edit: Actually on the other side... I see where this line goes now! My mistake.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 15, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

    Great route that packs quite a variety of climbing into a relatively short distance. Don't expect much of any pro for the chimney to the ledge and the chicken head finale. Easier climbing off the last small sloping ledge but hollow holds (my partner broke off a large piece following) and pro that's already a ways a way makes it exciting. Falling from the last section would not be ideal and you'd probably mess yourself up pretty good.

    Great route though that really packs in the exposure!
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