Coyote Tower 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | John Burcham and ?? |
| Season: | Fall through Spring |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Mar 24, 2006 |
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pat brown leading the last pitch of coyote tower
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Description Coyote Tower is an exceptional route with lots of good pitches. From the summit, the views are really cool as well and you'll be amazed at how high up you get. Start as described below. P1) Climb up multi-bulge face (5.8) with bolts to a fixed anchor above. Then scramble up to the base of the second pitch up and left. P2) Crux pitch. There are a couple stiff spots on this pitch, but basically climb in crack system left of a buttress, with an overhanging tight-hands crack at the top to a fixed belay. P3) Climb up into slot behind the top of the buttress and tunnel right behind it until you can exit to the right. A couple of face moves up and further right will put you on top of the limestone layer and a fixed anchor. Short pitch. P4) Climb crack above and right of the anchor to good shelf with fixed anchors. P5) Fingercrack in corner, good layback crack. Then short offwidth section leading to "dirt clod" (be careful not to damage this!). Surmount the dirt clod and climb up to a ledge in corner with anchors. P6) Climb up nice steep finger crack (5.9) to flat summit. I found the moves right at the top to be the crux on this one. Descent: Since I climbed this route, the rappels have been moved. Call the Flag gym to see if they have updated info.
Location Coyote Tower is a long slim tower formation that clings to the southeast corner of Courthouse Butte. To reach the start of the route, you have to hike below the tower on the flats until you're just past it and then scramble up ledges and slabs to reach the start atop a rounded buttress.
Protection Standard rack, Nuts, cams from 1/2" to #4 Camalot size. Bolts will be found on the first two pitches.
"Are you allright, do yo need a rescue?" came the ...
| BETA PHOTO: approaching Coyote Tower on Courthouse Butte. Rou...
| BETA PHOTO: Second to last pitch, slightly sketchy rock at sta...
| BETA PHOTO: A quick sketch of one of the ways to approach Coyo...
| BETA PHOTO: Here is a quick, best recollection of the Coyote T...
| BETA PHOTO: Coyote Tower
| Marcy and Geir on pitch 4 of Coyote Tower
| Peering down through the squeeze chimney finale on...
| Surpassing the infamous pod at the top of P2. "Rem...
| Dan Millis is beginning the climb's overhanging cr...
| It can be a bit awkward....
| The summit is a very contemplative place.
| Coyote Tower photo by D. Mabe
| BETA PHOTO: view of approach. hike on the trail past the tower...
| Phil at the second bulge of P1. anchors are next t...
| Emily cranking on the third steep section on pitch...
| Sizing up the overhanging thin hands finish.
| Overview of the second pitch.
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By Aimee Rose From: Bend, or Mar 30, 2006 rating: 5.10+
| Such an amazing line! One of the cleanest cracks in Sedona, but I still pulled a giant block off, so wear your helmet! |
By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ Aug 19, 2006
| Just another great day of "Sandona" climbing. |
By claramie From: Boulder, CO Sep 17, 2006
| This was a great climb. The (fifth?) dihedral pitch was so clean and nice! Although the third - fourth pitch are loose and a little disconcerting, this is a top Sedona offering. CL |
By Mike From: Phoenix Nov 14, 2007 rating: 5.10
| This route can be done in 4 pitches with a 70m rope & 3 pitches with an 80m, not including the optional jump-across pitch. Link pitches 2 & 3 (you get some rope drag during the 3rd pitch, but it is mostly 4th class anyway). Pitches 4 & 5 link very nicely with a 70, and one can continue up to the top (linking the final 3 pitches) with an 80. The optional jump-across pitch at the end is fun to do once, but it is runout on mostly crappy rock then is still a bit of a hike (in climbing shoes) to the top. Rap back to the top of the tower off tree slings. |
By Catherine Conner From: Phoenix, AZ Nov 26, 2007
| Awesome!!! Swapped leads on this great adventure climb. The crux pitch (followed this) was tough, good job Joe!!! Highly recommend this one!!! |
By Bennett From: pdx Nov 29, 2008
| Climbed the route again for the third time on Nov 22. One of the safer and more classic lines in Sedona, and pitch two, crux pitch has to be one of the better sandstone pitches in AZ. Positioning on final pitch is phenomenal. A couple "muddy" spots but excellent quality overall. Second to last pitch if done as topo explains, has some loose blocks just above start and plugging good gear in the dihedral is crucial just off the belay... in my opinion the only slightly dicey moves of the route are here, other than easy but runout start on pitch one. |
By Brian Crockford From: Boulder, CO Apr 21, 2009
| Takes great gear and has some bolts for supplemental protection. As of 4/19/09 the route has excellent belay anchors throughout. Rock was solid with the exception of the "tunnel" on pitch 3 that had a bunch of loose rock that you basically scramble over, and a loose block on pitch 4. For more info take a look at the route and approach topo/drawings uploaded in the photos section. Be safe, have fun! |
By Geir From: Tucson, AZ Apr 28, 2009 rating: 5.10+
| This climb is a lot of fun, and is pretty burly throughout! One thing to watch out for: the first pitch has two ledges that are likely to tweak an ankle in the event of a fall. Make sure you're very attentive on belay! |
By Andy Bennett From: Tucson, AZ Jul 26, 2009
| Super fun route! Every pitch is pretty engaging. |
By Justin York From: Phoenix, AZ Oct 31, 2009 rating: 5.10c
| Love this route. Leave the #4 behind, and go do it! |
By Colonel Mustard From: Reno, NV Dec 22, 2009
| No comments on the rap, so I thought I'd mention it's a plumb line from the top rap on down and you will have seen all the rap anchors on the way up. You do not rap the 2nd pitch but the 3rd pitch anchors land you at the 1st pitch rap anchors with two 60 meter ropes. This is a great line, with the 2nd pitch being one of the better pitches I've done in AZ. |
By Jason Nelson From: SLC, UT Nov 14, 2010
| There's no good approach beta listed, so here it goes. Take the trail below and past the tower until there is a gully that comes into view to the right of the tower. Head up towards the gully, but go left below the steep slabs guarding the tower. Don't go right up the gully as this will leave you dead ended. Contour the steep slabs left until you are dead ended below the tower on a pedestal of sorts. Look up the slabs above you about 50 ft. and you should see the bolts for the first pitch. |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Aug 4, 2011 rating: 5.10d
| Rainy season means even more loose rock and there is certainly plenty of it. Even p. 2 now has lots of little blocks going. Still an amazing route. |
By Erock From: Flagstaff, AZ Dec 20, 2011
| Can you rappel off this route with one 80m rope? Or do you need 2 60m ropes. I am climbing this tomorrow, anyone have a quick response? Thanks |
By Mike From: Phoenix Dec 20, 2011 rating: 5.10
| Erock you need 2 60's. |
By Erock From: Flagstaff, AZ Dec 20, 2011
| Thanks Mike |
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