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Supercrack Buttress
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Unsorted Routes:

Coyne Crack 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Leonard Coyne
Page Views: 18,536
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 28, 2001
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photo cred: G. Neely

Description 

This awesome splitter is located a couple routes to the left of Supercrack. Climb difficult rattly fingers for about 30 feet and then climb thin hands to the anchors.


Protection 

Many .75 and #1 camalots. 1 #2 camalot for the top.



Photos of Coyne Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Nate "high fiving"
Nate "high fiving"
Em cranking on Coyne.
Em cranking on Coyne.
Michelle Hale cranking through
Michelle Hale cranking through
Toby slotting rings. Obligatory Alf appearance in the upper frame.
Toby slotting rings. Obligatory Alf appearance in ...
Me on coyne crack back in 06 <br />-photo by Mike Sheridan
Me on coyne crack back in 06
-photo by Mike Sherid...
Glad to see those anchors, my big mits can barely get in this thing.
Glad to see those anchors, my big mits can barely ...
Nice penmanship on this one as well.
Nice penmanship on this one as well.
Coyne Crack
Coyne Crack
C. Treiber races the sunset up Coyne.
C. Treiber races the sunset up Coyne.
Chris on Coyne Crack
Chris on Coyne Crack
Climber: Erin Keeley  <br />Photo: Botsy Phillips
Climber: Erin Keeley
Photo: Botsy Phillips
Well, I apologize for the photo quality  <br />and excessive size... I don't have any  <br />editing software. <br />Anyway, two photos of me sewing up  <br />Coyne, one from the sketchy lieback,  <br />and the other after In fell and decided  <br />to try the tough jams.  This climb is  <br />my toughest attempt yet, but I still  <br />haven't done it clean.
Well, I apologize for the photo quality
and exces...
Jennilyn making the start of Coyne Crack look so easy with her tiny hands
Jennilyn making the start of Coyne Crack look so e...
D Snyder on Coyne Crack 2007.
D Snyder on Coyne Crack 2007.
Matt Pesce floating Coyne Crack
Matt Pesce floating Coyne Crack
juan pablo villagra climbing Coyne <br />photographer: Micaela Buteler
juan pablo villagra climbing Coyne
photographer: M...
Ryan leading Coyne Crack.  Mon 14 Apr 2014.
Ryan leading Coyne Crack. Mon 14 Apr 2014.
Comments on Coyne Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 18, 2012
By Aaron Shupp
Feb 6, 2002

The beginning is rough, but the jams get nicer the higher you go up. I started out lie-backing until I could tweak my fat toes in. This one's definitely pumpy.

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 25, 2002

For the start, which seems to be the crux, you need a #1 friend then a #1.5 friend friend or equivalents before you get into the .75 cam sizes. More #1 cams than #.75. Excellent route, one of my favorites.

Actually, Ken Sims got the first ascent when Leonard Coyne was recovering from a fall on the climb. When Coyne fell a friend popped and broke his glasses injuring his eye. Interesting historical note in Stewart M Green's Utah book. - Casey Bernal

By Anonymous Coward
May 2, 2002

A point of clarification. The first ascent of Coyne's Crack was originally done around 75 or 76 by myself (pre-Friend area, passive and hammered hexcentrics and other pieces of jiggery pokery). The accident mentioned by Casey occurred on the attempted 2nd ascent (attempting to use #1 Friends instead of 1.5, no 1/2 size units had been developed by Ray @ that time).

Another aside, one needs 3-4 Red Camalots and 1-2 Golds for the top. Climb would be very necky with simply one Red camalot as indicated in the gear description. - L Coyne

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2002

This crack is sometimes confused with Supercrack, and I know of at least one leader who thought they were starting Supercrack. He soon realized his error, but found himself in this thin crack with many large cams dangling from his harness. Having a bona-fide "religious experience", he barely completed the climb for an impressive flash. This style, the "ignorant flash" is even more coveted than the onsight flash.

By Anthony Everhart
Jun 1, 2003

I read the guidebook description for gear to the second set of chains (4, #3friends) and decided after getting my ass kicked I could take in some fun climbing. I don't know where those 3 frinends go up there. I got about 20ft over the chains before deciding to come back down. If going for the 2nd anchors take more #2 frinends, or if there gone take some 4friends.A. Everhart

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

i'm one of those people who thought this was super crack. whipped on my first piece, came down, re-racked, and commenced to laybacking and dogging my way up the hardest 5.10 in my whole life. now i do this one at least once on every trip to the creek.

By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 22, 2008

I believe Wild Country came up with the quarter-sized 1.25 and 1.75 Friends just for the start of this crack. I'm just speculating, but they do work so well for the first two pieces.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008

This is a fun, hard route. Would be easier for those with smaller hands. After the low .75 camalot crux, it is a left facing #1 camalot for a long way. Great route but I would probably do something different given the chance since the bottom 25 feet are so polished.

CL

By karcbr
Jun 2, 2008

Must be called Sims crack. FIRST ASCENT -KEN SIMS-

By wilcox510
May 20, 2009

I'm not sure if this is actually easier for the small handed folks. I have small hands and I can get better jams than some once it gets to the red Camalots, but the bottom is brutal for me, it's sort of just too wide to get any decent ring locks while my friend with much larger hands could actually get some decent locks down there. I guess it's just the same as any other IC route, the difficulty is hand size dependent. Regardless, it's an amazing route.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
May 21, 2009

The scenario you describe for the start is how us midsize hands people feel for 90% of the pitch.

By JamesLucas
Apr 13, 2012

Next person to call this route soft will get punched in the face by my huge hands.

By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Oct 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Well said james! This is one of the only 11+/12- that have booted me every try. The crack hurts so bad. I did finger in a light socket 2nd go and coyne crack has spitted me off many times. I would suggest 3 .75, 7 red camalot, and 2 #2 bds.