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 ADVANCED
Ort Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Clip, Clip, Wow S 
Color Coded Quickdraws S 
Cowboy Up S 
Geronimo S 
Ort Man Complex S,TR 
Sidesaddle S 

Cowboy Up 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Matt Schlueter and Daniel Forbes
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Tim Camuti on Jun 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

Route starts a few steps up the talus and trends left to the Sidesaddle anchors using big holds and easy steps over and up.


Location 

Furthest right line of 3 bolts on the Ort Wall, shares an anchor with Sidesaddle.


Protection 

3 bolts and anchor carabiners for chains.



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By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 11, 2013

The new guidebook gives this a 5.9.

A head-sized loose jug with a big white chalk X on it prevents the climber from taking the path of least resistance here now, making the climb's hardest moves more technical. Maybe this has changed since the current description was written? When this wobbler falls, the grade could change again, depending on the fracture line.

I found this to be slightly more challenging than Sidesaddle 5.9 next to it, not a full grade harder, but certainly on par to me.

[edit: the guidebook grade is actually 5.9R, I believe that's for the direct start as opposed to traversing from the right to clip the first bolt, which makes it a safer but shorter short]

By Leo Ramirez
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is definitely the easiest route of the grotto/ort wall. Climbed it a couple of weeks ago and did not see an X; did not find loose rock. Perhaps the rock felt already. (IMHO 5.9 sounds like a bit much for this one)

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 14, 2013

If the loose rock is gone from the crux, it's probably more 5.8 than 5.9.