Matt Robertson's "Taiwan Rock Climbing" calls this a 10a, gives it 2/3 stars, and notes that 'the diving board may be loose.' This must be if you disregard the bolt line and have a 8-foot wingspan. The climbing begins just left of Rodeo Clown, and shares the starting moves. Move up the arete, eventually traversing left and up under a fin of rock. You can go right or left here. The next bolt is on the left side, but the wall here is completely blank, and requires some fancy arete-undercling-footwork-reach business to get to the top of the fin. To keep it 10a, go right and reach around the fin to clip the next bolt. Then move through some loose, moderate ground and establish yourself below the final overhang. The diving board (you will know it when you see it) appears to be completely detached, and would spell disaster if it came out. Either move left along a horizontal crack and up a short right-leaning dihedral to the bolts, with horrendous pendulum fall potential, or try to use the diving board and a poopy sidepull to reach WAY out right to the crack and then the anchors. Bleh!
Far right side of the Basement, left of Rodeo Clown and right of New Ferrari.
Lead: 10 SS GI bolts
Anchor: 2 SS GI bolts
Oct 31, 2013
The diving board has been loose for some time now. Not saying that it won't come out, but it has so far lasted all these years (straddled the damn thing in 07). It'll be dramatic when it does -- hopefully with no riders astride when it pulls.