One of the more obscure face climbs at Courtright....
Hidden well within the boundries of the Sierra National Forest is Courtright Reservoir, the "lost sister" to the ever captivating Tuolumne Meadows. Located 2 hours east of Fresno, Courtright boasts of the same qualities as that of the terrain found in the high country of Tuolumne. Pristine, high quality granite domes torture the climbers imagination and entices any adventurer to scout the infinate possibilities. The signature landmark upon entering the Courtright area is the 500 foot high Power Dome. Teeming with a host of 5-pitch, friction scare-a-thons, Power Dome will make a marked impression in the minds and hearts of inspiring rock jocks. Scattered around the perimeter of the reservoir are a myriad of other domes and walls. Trapper, Spring, Maxon, Penstemon and Dusy are just a few domes that provide countless adventures, where traditional and sport climbs abound. Although the domes provide ample friction, smear and fine edge climbing routes, Courtright also offers several crack climbs at areas like Tiger Wall and Tiger Cage (featuring the hailed twin splitter, "This Pussy Eats You"). The Sequoia/Kings Canyon guidebook by Sally Moser, Greg Vernon and David Hickey, has dedicated over a third of the books contents to Coutright Reservoir alone!! Best of all, you won't find yourself pulling from the ticker- tape to wait your place in line for a route. The majority of the visitors that frequent Courtright are fishermen. And, of course, the final beauty of the place is that the camping is FREE and so are the spectacular views into the Goddard Divide.
This section is a summary of the domes and walls featured at Courtright. Of course, an adventursome spirit is warranted to explore the overall area but the use of the 'Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: Sequoia/Kings Canyon' guidebook is extremely helpful. This guidebook provides ample information on the "how's, where's, what's and when's" to Courtright climbing.
The listing of domes and features are in order of the most southern feature to the most northern feature (based on moving counterclockwise around the reservoir):
Dome Of The Immaculate Conception (aka Notre Dome)
+ The dome features sustained micro edging and several clean cracks (mostly 5.10's).
-Lost Canyon Wall
+ Located to the east by following the Short Hair Creek, this wall features some moderate yet wildly exposed climbs. It also has its share of steep and overhanging routes (5.7 to 5.11).
-Tiger Cage & Tiger Wall
+ Hidden to the east, just a few hundred yards off of Courtright Rd and slightly south of the reservoir, Tiger Cage has a variety of climbs: thin friction slab, steep face and cracks. Be sure to check two of its classics: 'This Pussy Eats You' (.10b), a nice lead climb for potential crack feinds, and 'Little Black Sambo' (a 5.9, not identified in the SeKi guide). The later climb is located on the left most part of the wall and features delicate friction. A good lead warm up for the ever classic multi-pitch 'A Little Nukey' (5.9-) on Power Dome. There are several anchors that can be accessed on top for top roping most routes. Located next to Tiger Cage, the 75 foot orange and black overhanging Tiger Wall covers stout face and crack climbs ranging from mid 10's to burly 12's. Recommended routes: 'Hungry Tiger' (.10b) and 'Tiger By The Tail' (.11c)
-Broken Tiers/Transformer Wall
+Located down in the Helms Canyon, next to the reservoir spillway, this wall seldoms sees traffic due to loose rock. However, there are some selected routes that won't disappoint crack climbers: 'American Pie' (a 3 pitch, 5.9) and 'Knappy Sack' (a mellow 50 foot.10a)
+Located in the Helms Canyon, one can spot this dome to the right from Courtright Rd. (upon entering the area). This dome is the hallmark of Courtright and rightly so. Power Dome hosts some bold friction climbs with the occasional solution pocket for psychological comfort. A word of caution: most routes are runout like the routes in Tuolumne! Rest assured, Power Dome claims several classics: 'Welcome To Courtright' (5.10a), 'A Little Nukey' (5.9-), Eve Laeger's route 'Esto Power' (.10d) and 'Consider Me Gone', a sphincter tighting 5.10c....tough for it's grade!
+If your skills aren't in the highly honed catagory, Punk Dome will surely make a punk out of you! With nothing easier than 5.10, Punk Dome is located southeast from the reservoir (next to Penstemon and Dusy Domes). However, this dome has only four reported routes on it with loads of first ascent potential (ranging from 5.10-5.12). Recommended climb: 'Reach For the Sky' (5.11a) which starts at a bleached white section, on the left side of the dome.
+Some liken this dome to a classic backcountry dome with only a 15 minute approach. This dome is located east of Punk Dome. Most routes are steep friction/edging climbs or crack corners. Highlights to Penstemon: Rope-A-Dope (5.8), Shake the Flake (5.9), Song Of The Earth (5.10a) and a route unnamed, left of 'Song Of The Earth'. The guidebook shows the crux to be 5.11 but has been downrated to .10b (at best).
+Due to its proximity to Punk and Penstemon Domes, this dome is hardly frequented by climbers. Although it is host to many challenging steep slab climbs, Dusy shouldn't be passed up. Climbs range from 5.7 to 5.11a R/X. A couple of new routes have appeared since the SeKi guide was published. This page maintainer found a diamond in the rough that sent shivers down my spine and brought my Elvis shakey legs to life! This route, 'Champion Of None' (5.10b R), is located 30 feet left of 'Neener, Neener' . Immediately left of 'Chapion Of None' is route called 'Kick, Thrash, Jab' (.10b). 'The amazing thing about Dusy......not a speck of exfoliation flakes, just super clean granite. Not to be missed!
+ Located directly east of the reservoir, this dome is where heros are made and cowards are sent home! Traditional by nature, Voyager features many crack routes and even a few aid lines (Doughballs On a Rampage 5.11a A2....put up by SP's very own, Kris Solem). This dome was once featured in an article of Climbing Magazine, exposing the hidden gems that Courtright features. Even Voyager's 'Ramp On' (5.6) makes for a wild challenge to the fledgling leader. Highlights to Voyager Rock: 'Smoke For Face' (5.11a, FA: Dwight Kroll) and 'By Jupiter, There Are Rings Around Uranus' (5.11d, FA: Herb Laeger and Kris Solem).
+Named after the late Bob Locke, Locke Dome is the most remote of all domes at Courtright. Situated past the northeastern shoreline of Courtright Reservoir, Locke Dome has only three routes upon its flanks but contains loads of route potential. If your willing to make the effort, hiking or boating, Locke will pay dividends to any backcountry climber.
+Beyond the northern shore of Courtright is Leopold Dome. This dome has a wide array of climbs from beginner to expert. From crack to face, Leopold exhibits the same characteristics as Penstemon Dome. Most of the moderate climbs are well bolted and range from 5.7 to 5.8+. Don't miss some of the stiffer rated climbs such as 'Burnt Beyond Recognition' (5.10c), a total calf incinerator. Highlights to Leopold: 'Piss Flaps' (5.8+) and 'Sinners In The Hands Of An Angry God' (5.10b).
+If you haven't got your fill of sport climbs then Trapper Dome is where you want to go for "clip and go" routes. This dome is located on the western side of Courtright, left of the Trapper Springs Campground Rd. Within 10 minutes, you'll be cranking up high quality granite with generous amounts of fixed protection along the way. Even Trapper Dome's easiest route, Drill Instructor (5.4, 110 ft) covers 10 bolts to a chained belay!!! But as things stiffen up around its southwestern wall, you'll be praying for more, especially on routes like the 'Carson-Kodas Arete' (a super wild and exposed 5.11c). Highlights to Trapper Dome: 'I Wouldn't Wanna Be Like You' (5.10d/5.11b) , 'Zodiac Mind Warp' (5.10d) and 'Rhythm Divine' (5.10d).....all rating 4-star glory!
Most people from the Bay area or Los Angeles will drive to Fresno via Hwy 99 South or North, respectively. Once in the Fresno city limits, take Hwy 180 East toward Kings Canyon. Stay on the 180 until the exit appears for Hwy 168 East. Exit onto Hwy 168 and travel its length to the town of Shaver Lake (30 miles), passing the small town of Prather along the way. After Prather, Hwy 168 will become a 4-lane road heading up a moderately steep grade. The highway will return to a 2-lane road at the top of the grade before reaching the mountain town of Shaver Lake (another 4 miles, once the highway returns to 2-lanes again). Just inside the town limits of Shaver Lake, turn right onto Dinkey Creek Rd. Follow this for approximately 11 miles to almost the roads end. Prior to the road ending (approx. 1/4 mile) is McKinley Grove Rd. Turn right onto McKinley Grove Rd and over the bridge that crosses Dinkey Creek. Follow McKinley Grove Rd. for approximately 13 miles till one reaches a signed intersection for Courtright and Wishon Reservoirs (this sign appears after travelling on the only mile long straight section of McKinley Grove Rd!). Turn left for 'Courtright Reservoir' and follow this single lane access road for approximately 8 miles to the reservoir. You'll know you're there when you get your first amazing eyeful of Power Dome on the right side, prior to arriving at the shore side of the reservoir. Total approximate distance travelled from Fresno is 100 miles and takes roughly 2 and half hours to complete.....but 'oh-so' worth it!
Although a fire permit is required for any campfire constructed in the national forest, the remaining amenities are FREE! All fire permits can be acquired at the Sierra National Forest HQ building, located in Prather along the 168.
There are also paid campsites available in Courtright, sponsored and maintained by PG&E. The camping fee per site is $15.00 per night. The campsite are provided with picnic tables, fire pits, water and pit toilets. There are two sites: Voyager Rock campground (14 campsites, tents only) is located on the southeast shoreline of the reservoir while Trapper Spings campground is located near the eastern shoerline, 2.2 miles to the north (following the single lane road along the east side of the reservoir). This campground has a total of 75 tents sites and 45 trailer sites. This campground is within stone's throw distance to both Spring Dome (aka Marmot Dome) and Trapper Dome.
For reservations to both campgrounds, call 877-444-6777 or TDD 877-833-6777.
As for other camping, respect the areas that are signed as "No Camping" areas. But for the most part, camping is FREE. Let's do our part as a climbing community and keep it that way! Respect all national forest rangers and PG&E employees.
When To Climb
The best time of the year to climb at Courtright is from late spring to late fall. Generally, PG&E maintains the access gate to Courtright (locate at the beginning part of the Courtright Rd). This gate usually opens on Memorial Day weekend or on a day that PG&E can access Courtright if the snow year was heavy. Closure depends on when the first good snow comes. The usual rule of thumb is follow the same closures observed as that of Tioga Road (Hwy 120). It will be PG&E's call when they will close the gate for the season. Check for gate conditions with the Sierra National Forest HQ in Prather (559) 855-5360 (press "0" for immediate transfer to a ranger). For all practical purposes, DO NOT call PG&E directly! The management with PG&E, at Wishon Reservoir, work hand in hand with the forest service and keep the national forest informed of all company activities, road closures and/or miscellanous information needed for recreationalists and visitors.
Daytime temps range from the low 60's to the low 80's, depending on the time of the year. Nightime temps usually range from the high 30's to the upper 50's.
Thunderstorms have been known to blanket the area over the summer. But for the most part, blue skies and wide open vistas prevail.
Browse More Classics in Courtright Reservoir
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Courtright Reservoir:
Featured Route For Courtright Reservoir
Smoke for Face
: Sierra Foothills South
: ... : Voyager Rock
This is a great slab route, probably the best one on Voyager Rock? If you think you got what it takes to climb 11a slab this is a great testpeice. 1st Pitch: Sustained 10+ slab, 8 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor. AWESOME! Start from a small pine tree up on a ledge. From the pine tree head up and right to a flake traverse the flake back left to gain another ledge just below your first bolt. The small ledge is 15ft above the small pine. From the ledge pull onto a slanting rail/flake that you can protect ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Heading up the 1st pitch of 'Esto Power', Power Do...
On the northwestern side of Trapper Dome (the back...
Kris Solem leading P1, Esto Power. Photo by Guy Ke...
A lone fisherman calls it a day. Courtright Reserv...
This is the view looking south from the summit of ...
BETA PHOTO: SPRING WALL TOPO
BETA PHOTO: Courtright offers many domes with clean slab climb...
BETA PHOTO: Regional Map showing how to get to Courtright from...
BETA PHOTO: Domes, parking & camping info. for Courtright Area...
BETA PHOTO: An excerpt from the Dusy Dome topo.
BETA PHOTO: Another excerpt from Dusy Dome topos.
View from the top of power dome
Camp site by the dam
Mike Arechiga chillin with a beer at the lake
Mike Arechiga on a fun 5.10b route on Tiger Cage W...
Mike Arechiga on, Nosferatu. 5.10c Trapper Dome.
Amy Wilkins on, Republican's On Crack. 5.8. Trappe...
Amy Wilkins on the second pitch of, A Little Nukey...
Mike Arechiga on the first pitch of, A Little Nuke...
Mike Arechiga on, Millions Of Dead Cops. 5.11b. Tr...
Mike Arechiga on, Orgasm Addict. 5.10d. Trapper Do...
Mike Arechiga on the first pitch of, The Paraclete...
The Maxson Domes in the back ground.
Topo to Water Pipe
Map to TR Wall and Aqueduct Wall.
|Comments on Courtright Reservoir
|By C Miller|
Sep 26, 2007
Great addition Dave!
|By Dave Daly|
From: Temecula, CA
Sep 26, 2007
Thanks Chris! I'll try to add a few routes and more photos as I get the chance.
|By lars johnson|
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 3, 2007
Nice write up Dave! Courtright is my absolute favorite place to climb, period. Don't forget The Paraclete on Power Dome, one of it's best routes'.
|By Aron Quiter|
From: Berkeley, CA
Nov 15, 2007
I want more info!!! Please please please.