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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Sooberb 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Court Jester 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: A. Sharp & J Bremer, 1980
Season: Any, other than a hot day
Page Views: 1,035
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 6, 2006
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The final difficult move at 10 something. I did th...

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Description 

A hard climb on difficult to place and difficult gear, or a decent toprope.

The climb is tough right from the start. Come off of the slab (unprotected) and pull into some tedious moves to grab a jug at the lip of the roof and match (solid, for the most part) then establish feet and move up and right to a downward-flaring finger lock and some strange holds off of a strenuous foot to the far right, then up and right to face holds (crux).

A narrow profile 1.5" cam can go below the fingerlock, and some #6-8 BD stoppers somewhat above it, probably before commiting to the crux move. Perhaps you could get a good cam in just above the lock too, but then it might be in the way and the crack flares downward, so I imagine it would be dubious.

From there continue up on somewhat hard moves (5.10+?) with some limited but decent protection to finish the climb, which eases off to puzzle-piece climbing after 10-15 meters and comes to a good belay spot on a solid finger crack (cams .5-1", heavy on the .75). You can belay or continue up and left to join The Human Factor (5.10, S, loose rock).

It may also be possible to retreat right all the way to join Sooberb. Regardless, there is a 100' rap on the next ledge up.

The climb in all is probably 5.11a and not 10c as suggested in the Eldo book.

To TR this climb, set a rope from good cams (.5" to 1" at what I refer to as the belay. This can also be accessed after leading Hanging Chad (10, S). You'll still have to get out of this mess though, which we did by finishing on 'The Human Factor.' In short, you have to lead 5.10 S just to TR this. Be mindful.


Location 

3 cracks right of P1 of 'Sidewall' or 2 cracks left of 'The Sick Flake' pitch of 'Sooberb.' Immediately left of 'Hanging Chad' by ~3 meters.


Protection 

A rack with double cams from .3" to 1.5" plus a set of nuts certainly including some steel or brass. Pro will be pumpy to place and sometimes sparse or questionable. Falling from the beginning overhang before reaching the jug (5.10?, reachy) would be disastrous.



Photos of Court Jester Slideshow Add Photo
Copping a rest with a heel hook way out right. I had a hard time getting out of this position and rocking onto the right foot hold. Photo by Tony Bubb.
Copping a rest with a heel hook way out right. I h...
My right foot is on a key hold used to make the hard move to reach a finger lock. Photo by Tony Bubb.
My right foot is on a key hold used to make the ha...
Starting the moves over the roof, which looks small in this photo, but feels pretty big. Getting to this point is a little tricky but not too hard, and downclimbable, and that's a good thing, since the gear will be strenuous to place from this position, and the gear below will by manky and on the slab. Photo by Tony Bubb.
Starting the moves over the roof, which looks smal...
Comments on Court Jester Add Comment
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By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 10, 2006

Aren't these photos for Court Jester? The Human Factor takes on the red, larger right-facing corner just left of where Ivan is climbing...

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 10, 2006

I think the route described here, and the photos shown, are for Court Jester (rated 5.10c S in the current guide, but actually closer to .11a). Court Jester climbs directly above the "101" in the page 219 photo in the Falcon guide.

There are four lines between Sooberb and Sidewall:
(1) The first crack immediately left of Sooberb is broken, vague and somewhat unappealing, and leads into an alcove, then goes up to the slung tree on Sooberb. This is not documented in the Falcon guide, but is called "Hanging Chad" after the 2000 Election debacle.
(2) Just left of this is Court Jester, which starts with a reachy unprotected roof and finishes with a finger crack in a wall.
(3) Left again is The Human Factor, the large, reddish, right-facing corner that slabs out at the top on the corner's right.
(4) Quiet Desperation, which climbs an overhang to reach a hanging, licheny right-facing corner, is immediately left of Human Factor and can be clearly seen as the dark-looking crack on the left edge of the middle-posted photo with Ivan climbing.

By Scott Bennett
Mar 6, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

Fun route, good warmup for some of the harder routes to the left. I was able to crank hard off the jug to place a good cam, but perhaps someone shorter would have to do an extra move to reach this (I'm 6'). If you could not get this piece, then the crux would be unprotected and quite dangerous.
-Scott