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This is a collection of small crags and blocks that contain many interesting, short crack climbs and a few bolted routes as well. The hillside gets abundant sunshine and one could conceivably climb here throughout the year. The rock is generally high quality and can be a little sharp, so taping up might be prudent. The routes are not particularly long or classic, but a good time can be had here.
Drive about six miles up the canyon from downtown Lyons. Parking is at the first major pullout on the left after passing through the Narrows. Walk about 50 yards back down the canyon and look sharp for a small trail going up the hillside. The trail is reminiscent of the approach to Happy Hour Crag in Boulder Canyon (steep and loose at the beginning but improves quickly). The trail is generally easy to follow and there are cairns here and there to guide your way. I found it easier to follow the trail going up than down, but your mileage may vary. About five minutes up the trail you'll encounter an old barbed-wire fence (the wire is on the ground where you cross). After passing a buttress on your right, you'll be able to see most of the prominent features. The approaches to the third band and fourth bands are the most straightforward, but finding the path of least resistance to your objective may require a little trial and error.
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Featured Route For Country-Western Crags
Slablander 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a CO : Lyons : ... : Shangri-La Slab
Start up the left line of bolts. The difficulties begin right away with thin .11 climbing that eases after a few clips. Make your way across some lower angle ground, then attack the crux headwall. Good luck. A "slippery" unprotected 5.11 crescent can be TR'd to the left of the start. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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