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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Country Roads 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA John Stannard and Pat Milligan 1971
Season: east facing
Page Views: 998
Submitted By: bheller on Aug 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Almost Heaven? 

That John Denver is full of shit, man!

Country Roads is an OK route that really amounts to 30 feet of forgettable climbing culminating in a decent 5-move boulder problem (v3): pulling over pitch one's obvious roof, about 40 feet up. Too bad it's not just a boulder problem:) After surmounting the roof, it's easy climbing up a right-facing corner for about a body length and then a short traverse left to a slung-tree anchor.

For those who continue with pitch 2 (not many appear to), continue more or less straight up from the belay tree until about 20 feet from the GT ledge, where you then trend diagonally right. Build an anchor. 5.4, 150 feet.

Word has it this route used to go at a more reasonable 5.10 until that fateful year of 1995, when a block or flake fell out of the roof, rendering the crux more crux-y.

Location 

About 30 feet right of V-3, at a vertical crack/seam that ends at a ledge 25 feet up.

Protection 

There is good protection up the initial easy vertical crack, but once you reach the ledge, protection seemed to be lacking until you get to the face off the ledge to the roof (I didn't look too hard; 5.7 R?). Once you reach the right-facing flakes/corner in the roof, a couple of fixed micro nuts are available (you shouldn't trust these), and then the crux proper is protected with a cheater sling/cord that hangs with an oval 'biner (you really shouldn't trust this! RIP, 2014, see comments). The cord is fixed and tied off to a pin in the corner above. All you have to do is clip, trust that manky fixed cord/pin, and execute the boulder problem. Above the roof, protection is obvious, until the belay tree, and the climbing is much easier. Pitch 2 requires a standard Gunks rack.


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By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 10, 2012

A more difficult sibling to City Streets, lots of body English on this one. The fixed mank is in bad shape, clip it and hope you don't fall. Someone's gotta replace that stuff someday.
By Alex Chenvainu
From: Greater NYC area
May 18, 2014

Fixed webbing in the corner has been removed. The pin is in bad shape. A so-so fixed wire is still there.